DYI DOLLHOUSE MINIATURES

LITTLE STORIES: "THE VALENTINE BOX"

2012-02-02T00:49:00.000-08:00

THE VALENTINE BOX

A 1" = 1' Miniature Do-It-Yourself Project
Parts 1, 2, & 3

LITTLE STORIES: THE VALENTINE’S BOX

The Valentine Box is first in a series of “Little Stories”. Those around my generation will remember the Valentine Box. Before Valentine’s Day our school teacher would either have everyone bring a shoe box to school to decorate or ask us to decorate it at home. The decorations were of ruffles of crepe paper, heart & other cutouts, hand printed designs and whatever else made one happy & proud. I will say here that not all of the boys in the class enjoyed this project, as was reflected by some of the strange items & pictures that adorned their creations. The boxes were then set on our desks in preparation of the Valentine Party. It had a slit cut in the top to receive any number of Valentine Cards which were brought from home. We all walked around to each desk and deposited our cards in the boxes. And speaking of these cards…oh the hours spent deciding who was going to get which card, especially ones for our best friend and for someone we had a little crush on. Oh and of course since we had to give a card to everyone in class, deciding which one we were going to give to our un-favorite classmate took forever…lest they might get the wrong idea. All of this took much shuffling through a stack of cards. Often we had to wait until we got home to open our Valentine Boxes & look at the cards we had received…this could take as long as preparing our cards had done because we tried to read into the meaning behind the printed messages. Often one would find an unsigned card or two…maybe one pledging “love” (oh, who was that from, be still my beating heart) or maybe there would be one featuring a rather ugly monster and a not so “lovely” message (probably from the same person that you sent your “ugly” card to).

So, here we find our Valentine Box all decorated and our cards ready to sort through and sign. Please don’t send me your “ugly” one!

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THE BASE

The base is constructed from two inexpensive, wooden, 4” x 6” picture frames. These frames can be purchased in the color of your choice or painted as desired. For this project the back of the frames will be the working side. Remove everything from the frames.

Determine the amount of space you want/need to “tell your story” & measure and mark one of the frames per this measurement. Use a razor saw to cut off the unneeded section of the frame. As seen 2 ½ “ was removed from the frame leaving a 4 ½” working surface.

If needed, paint the frames as desired. You may also choose to antique your color with a wash of mixture of a brown acrylic & Delta Gel Stain Medium, wiping back off as much of the wash as needed to achieve the look you want.

http://www.amazon.com/Ceramcoat-Painters-Helper-Stain-Medium

Cut a piece of bookboard to fit the opening of the cut frame. Cover this piece with flooring of your choice. As seen it is a simply a piece of off-white wool felt. Glue the prepared floor into the frame opening, on the rabbet, carpet facing up; set aside.

Choose what you would like to have viewed in the 2^nd frame from what will be the back side of the project. This may be a Valentine card (the cards given here are pre-sized to fit in the frame), wall paper, scrapbook paper, or what have you. Cut the paper to the size of the opening of the frame. Cut a piece of bookboard the same size as the opening. Cover one side of the bookboard with the wallpaper of your choice which will be the interior wall (I would suggest you keep the design and color of this paper as “quiet” as possible so it does not compete with the details of the setting). Fill the frame opening with first the frame’s glass and then the Valentine card (facing out), followed by the wallpapered book board, facing in. Use a quality glue stick for adhesion.

Glue the face of the prepared back piece to the cut edge of the prepared bottom piece, evenly & at right angles to each other. When glue has set you may choose to screw the two pieces together from the back for more strength. Cover the whole bottom with a piece of plain scrapbook paper. Feet may be added to the bottom if desired. As seen dimensional heart stickers were added to the four exposed corners.

CARD SELECTIONS FOR BACK OF BASE

Click on picture. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at Actual/Exact size

Print onto matte presentation paper using best printing selection

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See you soon with Part 2,

Joann

DESK

You will need: acid free, 1.5 (approx. 16” thick) book board/ binders board/quality chipboard. Note: You may choose to use 1/16” thick sheet wood if desired + 1/32” thick cardstock + a drawer handle of choice + optional: ¼” square stripwood, 1/8” x 1/16” stripwood, 3/16” x 1/16” stripwood + acrylic craft paint of your choice (a buttermilk shade was used here)

Instructions:

From bookboard cut a top 2 ½” x 1-3/8”. Round off the corners of one side as seen on pattern. Use fine sandpaper or an emery board to slightly round off the top edges of all sides.

Cut 2 sides 1-5/16” x 2-7/16”. Glue a short end of a side piece to the underside of the top piece, set in 1/32” from the straight end, back edges even, leaving the top piece overhanging the side piece by 1/16” in the front.

Cut two top stretchers 1 ½” x ½”. Cut one bottom stretcher 1 ½” x ¼”. Glue the top stretchers to the underside of the top piece and to the inside of the side piece, one flush with back edges of top piece and side pieces; the other set in 1/16” from front edge of the top piece with its side flush with the front edge of the side piece. Glue the bottom stretcher to the inside of the side piece, 5/8” up from bottom & centered side to side.

On the inside of the second side piece measure and mark a line 5/8” up from its bottom edge. Glue this side piece evenly in place to the underside of the top piece and the edges of the three stretcher pieces.

For the braces cut three ¼” squares of bookboard. Cut them in half diagonally. Glue the stacked together in threes to make two braces for the bottom stretcher. You may also choose a ¼” square piece of ¼”sq. stripwood cut on the diagonal. Glue the braces in place to the underside of the stretcher and the insides of the sides.

Cut a faux drawer from cardstock, 1-9/16” x 7/16”. Slightly round off the top edges with sandpaper. Glue the drawer centered over the front top stretcher. Add a handle of your choice, purchased or made from a large round-head straight pin or a straight pin inserted into a bead, etc.

Cut two feet 1-3/8” x 1/8” from either board or 1/8” x 1/16” stripwood. Glue a 1/8” side of the feet to bottoms of side pieces, back edges flush, extension to front and centered side to side.

Cut three shelves from 1/6” thick board or sheet wood per pattern. Note: the shelves should extend out from the side the exact same measurement as the extension of the top so check your piece for the correct measurement. Measure and mark shelf placement on side piece…you may use those given or use your own to accommodate the height of something you may choose to display. Glue shelves in place to side piece, making sure they are at right angles to side piece.

Cut two 2-9/16” x 3/16” lengths of board or 3/16” x 1/16” stripwood for shelf supports. The length of these pieces should be the same as the entire height of the desk, so double check the height of your desk before cutting them. Slightly round off the outside top edges of both pieces. Glue a 3/16” side of the supports to the edges of the shelves and top piece placed as shown.

Paint desk desired color…two light coats work better than one thick coat. When paint is dry you may choose to go for a “shabby-chic” look by lightly sanding off paint in areas that would naturally get more use.

Note: Although this desk has a faux drawer it would be fairly simple to make a working one if desired.

Click on pattern image to enlarge.

Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual / exact size or 8.19"W x 6.81"H

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DESK CHAIR

The chair used here is a “deconstructed” Chrysnbon Ladderback chair. The back was shortened by cutting off the top rail to just above the 2^nd rail. The second rail was then cut off & replaced by a piece of cardstock curved to match the curve of the rails. The front stretcher was shortened a bit so the chair would fit into the desk opening.

The chair was painted to match the desk.

The seat was covered with a self-printed design (200 thread count inkjet fabric sheet). The printed design was cut out leaving enough fabric on all sides to enable covering the whole seat from top to bottom. The design area of the fabric was backed with a cotton facial pad and then “quilted” with needle and thread. The prepared fabric was then glued centered to the seat, clipping corners and trimming off excess, etc. The seat was then glued in place to the back and the top of the front legs.

Click on image to enlarge,

Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at exact/actual size or 7.96"W x 7.80"H

Print onto a quality printer fabric

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Here is a photo of the full size desk & chair which is now serving my 3 year old granddaughter when she visits. This desk & chair have been with me thru several moves and have been painted over many times…it was red when I purchased it at a church yard sale. I then painted it sage green to use as a recipe center in my kitchen. Next was flat ebony for my nightstand. And now as you see it has a shabby-chic look for a child’s room. Got to love these inexpensive, never-say-die, versatile, all wood, home constructed pieces of furniture.

In Part three we will address the accessories. See you soon….

Joann

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ACCESSORIES

LAMP & OUTLET COVER

The lamp base is a corked miniature, I” high, clear glass bottle. I filled it with multi-colored no-hole beads. I removed the cork’s brass eye pin and replaced it with a ¾” long brass eye pin.

Miniature Chemical Bottle With Cork http://www.shipwreckbeads.com

http://www.amazon.com/MINIATURE-GLASS-BOTTLE-STOPPER

For the shade, use the printie given here as a pattern and cut out a shade from a parchment-like scrapbook paper. Cut out. Lay the cutout on a giving surface and roll over it, following the shape, with a round pencil, or the like, until it curls over on itself. Glue the side over the tab. Trim both the top and bottom edges with 2mm cording, silk or cotton (usually found with beading supplies).

Click on image and save to your computer

Set to print at exact/actual size or 2.22"W x 1.12"H

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Punch a ½” circle from a scrap of sheet acrylic (think blister packaging) and poke a needle hole in its center. Glue this piece snuggly and evenly into the lampshade.

To assemble, poke the eye pin down into the hole in the acrylic circle so the eye sits on top of it. Feed a small translucent or clear, oval bead on the eye pin and then push the eye pin down into and thru the cork and then fit the cork snuggly into the filled bottle (if needed the eye pin can be shortened).

Of course the lamp can be electrified with adjustments to these directions and supplies.

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For the lamp cord use the same cording as for the shade trim. Tie a knot in one end and hold with glue. Glue the knot to the side of the lamp at the bottom. Glue a small white seed bead to the other end (length of cording is up to your needs) and glue the bead/plug to the outlet cover.

Print the outlet cover onto cardstock. Cut out and tool a bit to add dimension. Glue to wall as desired, preferably behind the desk placed so it can be viewed, for people who love to spot details in our miniature work.

Click on image and save to your computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 1.45"W x 0.54"H

Print onto card stock

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CALENDAR

Print the calendar backing onto mate presentation paper and the calendar itself onto bright white paper. Cut out the two pieces and glue the calendar to the back piece by its top edge. Apply a dot of Diamond Glaze ( http://www.amazon.com/Judikins-GP005-Diamond-Glaze ) to the nail to add dimension. You may notice that the printie I have given you is lighter in tone than seen in my project. I felt the black color was too intense for mini work.

Click on image and save to your computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.77"W x 1.48"H
Use best settings

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SILHOUETTES

Print silhouette images onto paper of your choice. A greyish, velum-like paper was used here. Cut out the images with border intact. Cut a piece of cardstock and a piece of clear acrylic sheeting (look around you for blister packaging) the same size as the silhouette cut-out. Use glue stick to adhere printie to cardstock. Add just a thin line of glue stick around edge of acrylic and press on top of printie assembly. Let glue set.

For framing cut 4 strips of copper foil tape http://www.amazon.com/Ranger-Memory-Glass-Foil-Copper To add the framing peel off the paper backing on the tape. Press it on to the top of the silhouette assembly using the drawn line as a guide. Trim of any excess extending over outer edges. Using your thumb nail, smooth out the tape on top and then run it across the top edge to crease the tape. Fold the tape down the edge, crease again, and then press the excess to the back. Do the top and bottom edges first and then the sides. When all four sides of the frame are in place use a sharp craft knife to cut through all layers of tape, on a diagonal, in each corner. Carefully lift & remove each corner. You may choose to tool a simple design into the foil tape using a pointed stylus.

Click on image and save to computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 1.74"H x .87"H

Print on paper of choice

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VALENTINE BOX & LACE & RIBBON BOX

In the printies I have given you a choice of a plain red one or a white one with designs. Print onto matte presentation paper, cut out, and cut out the slot in the lid. Score & fold; glue tabs to inside on box & lid. Decorate as desired with thin strips of crepe paper, fine glitter, cut-outs, rubber stamps, and what have you…you may choose to add your name so we will know whose box we are dropping our valentines in.

Prepare the Lace & ribbon box in much the same way. Fill the box with scraps of colorful lace & ribbon. Display it with the lid slightly askew and a bit of the contents hanging out to add some “movement”/interest to the setting.

Click on image & copy & paste to your computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.98"W x 3.14"H

Print onto matte presentation paper

VALENTINES

Print onto matte presentation paper or semi-gloss photo paper. Carefully cut out. To make the valentines stand up you can cut a small square of self-paper to attach to the bottom or a small triangle to attach to the bottom of the back. Spread completed valentines across the desk in a pleasing manner, some flat, and some upright.

Click on image & save to your computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 3.80:W x 2.42"H

Print onto matte presentation paper at best settings.

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GIFT BAG

Make copy of gift bag & cut out. Using the pattern as a guide, fold and vertically crease the lines as shown. Fold the tab back flat and coat it with a thin line of glue stick. Press the opposite side evenly over the tab, creating a box-shaped tube. Let glue dry.

Fold the bottom section of the bag sides inward which will cause the bottom of the front and back sections to fold along the crease lines, forming triangles. Glue the triangles, one over the other, to form the bottom of the bag.

Pinch the sides of the bag, causing them to fold inward. When you have pinched as far as possible without distorting the bag, stop and fold the bottom of the bag up over the font.

With your fingertips wipe craft glue onto a length cording, such as Knit-Cro-Sheen cotton thread http://www.amazon.com/Coats-Clark-Knit-Cro-Sheen-Crochet-Cotton and let glue dry. From this thread cut two handles to desired length. Glue the ends to the handle tabs and glue the tabs to the inside of the bag, corning down and placed as shown.

Fill with a variety of valentines (or whatever) poking out the top.

Click on image & copy & paste to your computer
Set to print act actual/exact size or 3.25"W x 3.04"H

Print on to bright white paper

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BOOKS

Make printies on bright white paper. Cut out, score on all lines, clip as shown. Fold tabs inward and glue in place. Pages may be cut from the edges of tablets or faux pages can be cut from scraps of foamcore, bookboard, matboard, fun foam, etc. Cut these slightly smaller than the book cover. Glue the page piece evenly into the cover. Use a quality glue stick for adhesion.

Copy & paste image to computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.21"W x 4.47"H

Print onto bright white paper at best printer settings

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PET BED

This is a project from my July, 1984 NN article, Dog Days (OMG, has it been that long, yep, just looked in the mirror, it has).

You will need: scrap of matboard + straight pins + J & P Coats Knit-Cro-Sheen cotton thread http://www.amazon.com/Coats-Clark-Knit-Cro-Sheen-Crochet-Cotton + Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate glue http://www.crafterspick.com +acrylic craft paint in color of your choice (as seen a buttermilk color was used) + ½ & ½ mixture of Delta Gel Stain Medium http://www.amazon.com/Ceramcoat-Painters-Helper-Stain-Medium & raw umber craft paint + scrap of lightweight cardboard and light weight cotton fabric in pattern of choice

Copy & paste pattern to computer

Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.23"W x 2.23"H

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Using pattern given, cut a bottom from matboard, transferring all markings. Use a needle tool, drill or something similar to make holes, as marked, thru bottom piece.

Use three strands of the cotton thread to braid enough length to wrap around outside edge of bottom piece. Saturate the braid with craft glue, hang to dry. Glue the braid around outside edge of bottom piece, starting and stopping neatly at center back & pressing the braid flat to matboard.

Insert straight pins up into bottom piece on marked dots until the stops of the pins are flush with the underside of the bottom piece.

Braid enough length of thread to go around underside of bottom piece to cover pin heads. Prepare thread with glue as described above. Glue in place & let dry.

Glue an end of a length of thread on the inside of bottom piece, just to the left of the center pin. Weave in and out of the pins 5 full times around. On the 6^th run, eliminate the 1-2-3 pins & turn on the 4^th, reversing directions, and turning on the 4^th pin on the other side. Continue this procedure, eliminating a pin and reversing directions until you come to the marked back corners. Cut off excess thread and glue end neatly to inside.

Tap a little glue on top of woven thread where it touches pin. When glue has set use wire cutters to nip off excess pin. CAUTION: Cut pins tend to fly, so either hold bed in a paper bag or lay a piece of tape over pins when snipping.

Braid enough thread to go around top of bed. Prepare with glue and adhere around top of weaving, covering cut pin ends.

When all glue has set paint whole bed with a buttermilk color craft paint (or color of your choice). When paint has set apply a wash of the Gel Stain mixture and while still wet wipe back off until you are pleased with the antiquing. A damp cloth may be used to remove even more of the antiquing medium.

Cut a piece of lightweight cardboard to a size slightly smaller that bottom pattern. Glue a piece of cotton to the top of this piece and cover with a lightweight, cotton fabric of your choice, turning raw edges to back; glue into bed.

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A SWEDISH CHRISTMAS

2011-11-19T21:01:00.000-08:00

While “tidying” up my workroom I came across a DIY Christmas article of mine in a “vintage” Nutshell News. I remembered the fun I had creating the items therein and decided to put aside my “cleaning and tossing” for a few days and use the time to recreate some of the pieces for your DIY fun. Of course the original miniatures are long gone so I made them again, updating the instructions, photos and material’s lists as needed.

Enjoy,

Joann

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A SWEDISH CHRISTMAS

(Edited from original 1982 article)

Although I am not of Swedish heritage I was born and raised in a Scandinavian/American community (fondly referred to by all as “Snoose Junction”). I have fond memories of a month of Christmas that officially started on December 13^th with the crowning of the Lucia Bride and ended with the final lighting of the Christmas tree on January 13^th. In between, the days were filled with merriment.
Preparation for Christmas started early in December. Straw goats and ornaments were unpacked and refurbished. Stores were brimming with traditional Christmas items like carved wooden figures of Jultomten (gnomes), carved and brightly colored Dalecarlian horses, and barrels of lutefisk on the walks outside. Bakeries and kitchens, mothers and grandmothers all seemed to exude the delicious aromas of cardamom, ginger and the other ingredients that went into the many cakes, rolls, breads, and cookies of Christmas. Weekend evenings would often offer street dances for all, with schottisches being the favorite.

I eventually married into a Swedish family and many of the traditions I fondly remember from my childhood have been incorporated into my family’s Christmas celebrations.

Here for your DIY perusal are some of my take on traditional Swedish Christmas pieces, in miniature. Add them to your Christmas collection or create a holiday scene around them.

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JULTOMTENS

At Christmas time I can remember many sizes of hand-carved Jultomtens filling the shelves & windows of gift shops and being displayed on mantels & table tops in homes. These little fellows are carved wooden figures representing mythical gnomes, who are the guardians of Swedish households and farms. Over the years they have come closer to looking like our Santa Claus and they bring the Christmas gifts.

Make your Jultomten in any size, !” and under, depending on where you will use them. Smaller ones may be hung on a tree; larger ones become table or mantle pieces. All should have the traditional red suit, red stocking-type hat, and white beard. The body should give the impression of being made of carved wood.

These little fellows are fun and fairly easy to create. They make a perfect group/club project with everyone bringing a supply of wooden beads & findings to share. No two will ever be alike; each will have his own personality.

You will need: Assorted wooden beads for bodies, bells, cones, etc. If they are red, so much the better + Assorted sizes round, unpainted wooden beads for head + red bead-head straight pins for noses (found in needlework supplies) + Optional: small pieces of doweling or toothpicks for arms & legs, etc. + small flat wooden or punched cardstock rounds for bases if needed + acrylic paint in black, white and red + red permanent marker pen (to color unpainted beads) + white beard/hair material such as chenille yarn (Hint: chenille can be found in sporting stores in the fishing section. In the past few years chenille throws have been very popular but they usually do not wash well, which means you are likely to find a nice variety for sale at 2^nd hand stores. These are fairly easy to unweave giving you a “lifetime” supply of chenille yarn). Cotton, batting or faux fur may also be used + scraps of velveteen, knit ribbing (think baby socks), red quilling paper, or cone/bell shaped beads for hats + 3mm white pom-poms + Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky Glue

Black & white photo from December 1982 Nutshell News magazine.

Instructions:

-If your body pieces are not red, color them so.

-Insert head bead on a toothpick to act as a handle while you paint the eyes.

-Apply the eyes by first painting black rounds. When paint is dry, center a white round on it, leaving just a bit of black showing. When the white is dry add a smaller black circle off to one side. To make this process even simpler, use a toothpick to apply the paint in a slight swirl motion.

-For the nose, use wire cutters to nip off the round from the head of a red head pin. Take caution when doing this for two reasons: the pin and the head can both fly, which means the pin can cause injuries and the trying to find a tiny, lost pin head is maddening. Glue the nose between and slightly down from the eyes.

-Glue head to a body bead of your choice. If the piece will not stand glue a round base to the bottom.

-Glue a beard on face. Glue hair to back of head, meeting up with beard. Trim beard and hair as needed or desired.

-Add a hat: Use either a red wooden bell or cone shaped bead or sew a tiny tube from ribbing cut from a sock, turn right side out, sew a running stitch and gather to form a sort of tassel on top and turn up a brim; or glue a triangle of red velveteen together to form a cone; or tightly roll a length of red quilling paper into a coil until it is wide enough to fit the top of your head . Glue the end to hold. Use a pencil or similar took to gently push out the coil to form a cone. Paint inside or outside with watered down glue to hold shape. Glue hats to head, at jaunty angles if desired and top with a 3mm white pom-pom or the snipped head of a white round head pin.

-Add buttons down the front of the body with paint or tiny punched rounds of paper. Black belts may be added.

-If desired, more detail can be added, such as arms, legs, feet with bits and pieces of this and that, but keep in mind that simplicity is part of the charm of these “rustic” little men.

Jultomtem photo from December 1982 Nutshell News magazine.

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COOKIE TREE

A classic Swedish decoration, with many variations to be found, but most will have the traditional sheath of wheat and simply decorated ginger cookies.

You will need: 3” of 1/8” square basswood stripwood for the tree trunk + round toothpicks for the branches + 3/32” thick basswood for the base + ¼” square or bell shaped wooden bead, red or painted red for the tree holder + 1/8 “wide red silk ribbon + wheat looking dried grass (snippets cut from small versions of brooms often found in craft stores or check you whisk broom. Tips of some dried grasses/foliage will also work.) + 8 red apples (these can be Fimo or formed of Styrofoam balls (see instructions) + assorted ginger cookies (see instructions) + brown sewing thread + Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky glue

Instructions .

-Mark the 3” piece of 1/8”square stick wood (the tree trunk) on two opposite sides, per diagram.

-Carve or sand the top of the trunk to a point.

Copy & paste image to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.53"W x 4.15"H

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-Starting at a pointed end of toothpicks cut two pieces (branches) each, 1-1/8”, 1”, ¾”.

-Glue matching toothpick branch sections to the 1/8” square upright trunk on marked lines on each side of the trunk, centered side to side; shortest pairs on top and tapering on down. Let glue dry thoroughly.

-.Glue red, silk ribbon in half lengthwise, for a 1/16 “width. Starting & stopping at center back, wrap prepared ribbon around the tree trunk just above where the 2^nd, 3^rd & 4^th branches touch the upright. Do not do this above the top branches.

-Gather a bundle of “wheat” approx.1-1/16” high & 3/16” thick. Wrap a piece of prepared ribbon around the bundle approx. ¼” up from the bottom of the bundle. Wrap it tightly and glue ends to hold. Insert prepared wheat bundle on pointed end of tree trunk, pushing it down so the ribbon area sits just above the top branches.

-From 3/32” thick basswood cut a base 1” x ¾”. Slightly round off the corners with fine sandpaper. Cover the edges of the base with the prepared ribbon, starting and stopping at center back.

-Enlarge the hole in your tree-holder bead so it will take the end of the tree truck. Glue the bead, centered on the base and when the glue has set, glue the tree firmly into the holder.

-Prepare 8 apples with stems. The apples may be made of Fimo but for this project I used red Styrofoam balls of the type found in craft stores in the faux flower section. The balls come glued together on stems in various forms and colors. At Christmas time you should be able to find nice red ones for your apples. Cut or pull the balls apart until you get 8 matching ones for this project. Gently squeeze the balls to the shape of an apple./ Use a medium ball stylus to indent the top & bottom of the apple. Using a needle tool, poke a fine hole in the apple’s top and insert, with glue, a snippet of fine twig for the stem. Apples may have color added for more detail or for touch-up as needed…acrylics, water color & pastels all will work. Poke a hole in the center bottom of the apple and push onto the tree branch ends. If your apples are Fimo you will have to ream out bottom hole so them will fit on branch ends. Do not apples glue on at this point, but mark where the apples end on the branch to help with cookie placement. Set apples aside.

-Prepare gingerbread cookies. The number of cookies on each stem can vary, depending on the size and shaped used. Your cookies may be made of a gingerbread brown Fimo rolled thin and cut with mini cookie cutters of by hand. You may use appropriate paper punches to punch out cookie shapes from brown paper. Or you may do what I did this time and used paper printies of cookies. To do this glue the uncut printie sheet onto gingerbread colored paper using glue stick. When glue has set cut out individual cookies.

If you are using paper for your cookies, turn the face down on a giving surface and roll around them with a large ball stylus to add some dimension.

To frost cookies you may choose to use any one or a combination of white acrylic paint, dimensional paint, such a Scribbles, caulking, or go over frosted areas of pre-frosted printies with Judi Kins Diamond Dimensional Glaze to add dimension.

Using a needle or fine needle tool, poke a hole in the top of the cookies. Add thread loops that are of a size that allow the cookies to hang between the branches. Note: If you want to “cheat” a bit or if your patience is like mine and wearing thin with age, you may simply glue the top tips of the cookies to the branches…Incredibly Tacky glue will hold almost instantly. You may also choose to add a tiny matching thread bows to the branch just above the cookies.

Once your cookies are positioned, glue the apples to the ends of the branches.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.16"W x 4.20"H

Print onto Matte Presentation paper

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Dollhouses From the Past

2011-10-31T23:04:00.000-07:00

As I may not be able to find the time to give you a Thanksgiving/November DIY project I thought over the next few days I would share some of my collection of vintage, Dollhouse related, ephemera. These are bits and pieces I have gleaned from many sources over the years.

For some of you they may answer questions and for others they may lead to asking questions. If you have any information or stories or photos concerning these or similar items please share & if possible I will add them here.

joanndiydollhouseminiatures@gmail.com

Enjoy,

Joann (who is now going to try to ready the house for an extended visit from family, which includes a much-loved but very vivacious, soon-to-be three year old…wish me luck, lol ).

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McCALL'S NEEDLEWORK & CRAFT MAGAZINE
FALL-WINTER 1951-1952

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SEARS GIFT CATALOG 1976

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1930 AD FOR TOOTSIETOY HOUSE

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1936 SEARS ROEBUCK CATALOG

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ADS FROM CHILDREN'S ACTIVITIES MAGAZINE
NOVEMBER 1941
(Click on images to enlarge)

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AMERICAN HOME PROJECTS

1948

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FROM A HARPER'S BAZAR MAGAZINE

EARLY 1900'S

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1947 HAPPI-TIME DOLLHOUSE WITH RENWAL FURNITURE.

Anne Green sent me the following story and photos:

“When I was growing up in the 50's I received a used cardboard dollhouse from some neighbor girls who had "outgrown" it. It was fully furnished with Renwal furniture plus cardboard pieces that I had always thought came with the house (have never seen reference to them so I don't know for sure.) I spent countless hours rearranging the furniture. I loved that dollhouse. Eventually I too grew up and my mother gave ALL of my dolls and other toys away when I went off to college.

In July 2007 at age 63 I decided I needed another dollhouse - and the rest is history. My heart almost stopped when I found MY dollhouse being offered with the auction closing in only a few hours. Soon it was mine, all mine, - I absolutely HAD to have that dollhouse.

The cardboard house wasn't in too bad of a condition although it had been well-loved. I like the fact that it shows signs of wear (don't we all?). I did need to re-glue all of the tabs - all of the layers of cardboard had separated over the years - so now they are sturdy and easy to slip into the slots. There are other parts that could be repaired but I don't think I will do that as the house seems sturdy enough - plastic furniture weighs almost nothing and puts no strain on the cardboard.

I've had so much fun shopping for the Renwal pieces I remember having. I don't have all of the pieces I'd like to have but eventually I'll find everything I want for the right price. In the meantime, I'm enjoying my Happi Time dollhouse. Every time I catch sight of it I get a pang of pure joy and happiness. I'm immediately transported back to being a little girl playing with that dollhouse.

Fondly,

Anne

www.gsolfot.com

Ad in 1947 Sear's catalog.

Thank you Ann, sharing is the heart of the mniature hobby, don't you think?

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From Woman's World Magazine 1932

Click on images to enlarge
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From 1947 A. Neely Hall Craft Patterns

Home Ideas Book

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This is a folder and large insert that I picked up at an antique store. It is from the 40's or 50's.

You may click on image to enlarge

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This is from THE AMERICAN HOME magazine
November, 1948

Click on images to enlarge

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A HALLOWEEN PEDDLER'S CART

2011-09-26T22:33:00.000-07:00

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...And here it is, the filled Halloween Peddler's Cart. I hope you have enjoyed this progressive project as much as I have enjoyed creating it for you.

Have a frightlfully fun and safe Halloween! And keep in mind, as Hallmark says, "Itty-bitty candy bars don't make for itty-bitty butts"....lol, sorry, I couldn't resist it......

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This past spring (April 2011 post) we made an Easter Peddler’s Cart and considering that the project was popular with so many, fun to create, and, personally speaking, a delight to display I decided to do a version of it to celebrate Halloween. Make the cart to display the DIY Halloween projects that will be offered here over a period of days or with items from your collection. You may also decide not to make the cart itself and just pick and choose from the individual projects to add fun Halloween items to your miniature collection.

Do check back every day or so and scroll down to see what new Halloween items have been added to fill in and around the cart. This means I have my work cut out for me so I had better get going….

Joann
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Projects to date to help fill the cart:
-Packaged Halloween Costumes
-Halloween Pull Toys
-Lollipops in Display Holder
-Ghost Swag
-Glitter Tree
-Greeting Cards & Display Stand
-Halloween Books
-Fright Tree
-Haunted House Table Decor
-Yard Sign Decorations
-Trick or Treat Bags
-Witchy-Way Weather Vane
-Note: Instructions for the masks seen on the cart are to be found (along with many others) in Miniature Collector magazine October 2008.

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TRICKS & TREATS

A HALLOWEEN PEDDLAR'S CART

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THE CART

You will need: 2mm (approx. 3/32” thick) book board + 1/4” x 1/16” stripwood +

3/32” diam. bamboo skewer or dowel + fine sandpaper + needle file + ¼”square stripwood + 1/16” thick sheet wood or matboard + ¾” x 1/16” stripwood + choice of canopy material, paper or fabric (scrapbook paper used here) + 3/16 “ or ¼” square styrene tubing (model railroad supply) + two approx.1-3/4” diam. wheels (you may look in 2nd hand shops for interesting wheels found on discarded toys, or look online for similar metal & wooden ones) + cart printies

Note: To save myself time & because generally the construction is the same, some of the photographs used here are of the Easter Cart .

Instructions:

1. You will be making a simple box using book board. Cut two sides 5-1/8” x 1-13/16”, two ends 2-9/16” x 1-13/16”, a top and a bottom 5-1/8” x 2-3/4”. Glue the edges of a side piece to the face for the top piece, outside edges flush. Glue the edges of the end pieces to the face of the top piece and side piece, all outside edges flush. Glue the second side piece in place, long edge to the face of the top piece and face to the edges of the end pieces, all edges flush and all squared up. Glue the face of the bottom piece to the edges of the side and end pieces forming a closed box. You may choose to score the lines in the side and front & back pieces, as seen to simulate boards or you may choose to glue on paper printes...the finishing of both to be descrbed later.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual size or 6.92"w x 8.99"h

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2. Cut four, 2-3/4” lengths of the 1/4” x 1/16” stripwood. Glue one each to the top and bottom of the face of the 2 box ends, all edges flush. Cut four, 1-1/2” pieces of the ¼” x 1/16” stripwood and glue to face of ends, framing in the ends.

3. Using 1/4” x 1/16” stripwood cut two top-of-sides trim pieces, 6 ¼” long. Round off one end as shown. Using a needle file ream out a hole thru the rounded end of these two trim pieces. The holes should be just large enough to take a 3/32” dowel snugly. Glue these two pieces to the sides of the box, covering the edges of the back trim, top edges flush, and extensions to front. Use the 1/4" x 1/16" strip wood to frame around the rest of the two of the two sides, as shown in the diagram.

Click on pattern to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer.

Set to print at actual size or 7.07"w x 6.30"h

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4. Cut a length of 3/32’ dowel slightly longer than the span between the two holes in the top trim, approx. 4 ½ “. Insert dowel into outside of one hole and then, with a bit of glue, into inside of the 2nd hole until it is flush with the outside of the 2^nd hole. Trim dowel so it is flush with the outside of the 1^st hole. A bit of glue may be wiped over the cut ends of the dowel. Lightly sand all corner just a bit. You now have the cart base.

5. If you wish to paint your cart to look like weather planks, paint the whole cart with tan acrylic (Delta’s Ceramacoat Palomino Tan used as seen). When the paint has dried use a medium-sized, stiff bristled brush and a dry-brushing technique to “whitewash” (Delta’s Ceramacoat Antique White used here) the planks as desired. When the white-wash has dried use a small pointed brush & Dark burnt Umber acrylic paint to add age, weathering, & knot holes, etc. to the planks. This is a fun job because it is hard to go wrong. You may also choose to just paint & weather the trim pieces and the top and bottom of the cart and then cover the sides, front and back with weathered plank printies, using quality glue stick to apply.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual size or 5.86w x 2.57h Print at best photo on either bright white paper or presentation paper.

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6. From ¼” square stripwood cut four, 4” lengths for the uprights and two 2-5/16” lengths for cross piece/shelf supports. Mark an X in the bottom of each upright to find its center. Insert the end of a straight pin about 3/16” of an inch up into the center of the X; clip off the pin leaving about 3/16” extending (Make sure to wear safety glasses as cut pieces can fly) . Add a bit of glue to the pinned ends of the uprights and pound them into the corners of the top of the cart, just inside the trim edges. Make sure they are standing squared-up with the top of the cart. From the same wood cut two center braces to fit between the front & back uprights (measurement not given because it can vary slightly for each cart). Glue these braces between the uprights, one in front, one in back 1-7/8” up from top of cart.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer.

Set to print at actual size or 7.74" w x 10.83"h

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7. From ½” x 1/16” stripwood cut two top braces 5-1/4” long. Paint the inside of these pieces to match your cart. Glue a ½” painted side of each of these pieces to the outside of the uprights, top edges even and corners squared-up.

NOTE: This photo is from the Easter Cart and is just meant to show the overall structure of the cart.

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8. From 1/16” thick matboard cut 2 canopy ends per pattern. If using canopy material other than vinyl wallpaper prepare for strength and fraying (iron-on facing for fabric & matte medium for plain paper). Paint the insides of canopy-end pieces to match cart. Cover outsides with chosen canopy material. If you would like a scalloped edge, as seen here, add ¼” to the length of material and use decorative scissors to cut scallops before gluing in place. Glue the prepared canopy-end pieces to the outside faces of the uprights including the edges of the top braces, outside edges flush.

9. Cut a 5-3/16” length of ¾” x 1/16” stripwood for canopy top support. Paint the underside to match cart. Glue the ¾” ends of this piece to the faces of the canopy end pieces, top edges flush.

10. Cut a 4-3/4” x 5-3/8” piece of canopy material. Pre-creasing along the edges of the material that will be touching the side and top supports before gluing canopy in place will help with the job. Glue canopy centered on top of the canopy top support, and to top edges of side canopy supports and then to outsides of top braces (letting scallops extend down to match scallops on sides if they were cut). Note: Pre-fitting your canopy will aid in its assembly. And of course if you are using fabric for the canopy you may choose to turn back a hem before installing. If you choose to use a straight edge rather than a decorative one you can always add a decorative edging after installation.

11. For an axle cut a 2-1/4” length of 3/16” square styrene tubing and glue it across the bottom of the cart, 1-1/2” away from the back edge of the cart. Paint to match cart.

Underside of cart

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12. Look to 2^nd hard stores for interesting wheels on kid’s toys (you will be surprised at how many interesting ones you will find) or you may choose to use book board or wood to cut plain round wheels or check our Metal Miniatures online. Paint 1-3/4” wheels to match cart.

13. Cut a 3-1/4” length of 3/32”or 1/8” bamboo skewer (you can use dowel but bamboo is stronger). Use a needle nose file to make holes in wheels of a size to take the dowel/skewer snuggly. Push it into a wheel with glue, until it is flush with the outside. Pass the dowel/skewer thru the axle and then add the 2^nd wheel. If necessary, top with a ¼” punched round of poster paper painted to match wheel. Of course these measurements etc. may be adjusted depending on the style of wheels used..

14. Cut a cart brace per pattern from 3/32” thick book board or sheet wood. Paint to match cart. Test to see if cart sits evenly with the brace in place and if necessary make any adjustments. Glue the brace to bottom of cart, by the long edge and set in ¼” in from front edge of cart, centered side to side

15. Add printed signage: Make 4 printies of cart signs onto cardstock. Carefully cut out around and inside of the four printies. (Cut away from you, watch your fingers and keep your blade sharp). Paint the backsides of the printies with black acrylic. Use a fine paint brush and a black water color pencil to color the cut edges of the signs. Use a quality glue stick to add signs to cart, placed as seen. Signage may be added to body of cart if desired.

16. The cart as seen sits on a white 8" x 10" wooden picture frame. A printie of a worn wooden floor is in the frame under the glass. Wooden findings have been glued to the underside of the frame for feet to raise the base just a bit.
The little witch pushing the cart is a purchased resin piece...a bit off scale but she just seemed perfect to man the cart. She is from RAZ Imports LTD.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer.

Set to print at actual size or 6.48"w x3.92"h

Use best printer settings and print onto Matte Premium Presentation Paper

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Have fun with the cart and check back often for DIY projects to fill it.

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PACKAGED HALLOWEEN COSTUMES

You will need: copies of costume packaging + glue stick + 24-gauge wire + snippets of this and that for the faux costumes

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at exact size or 8.24"w x 4.16"h

Print onto Bright White paper on Best printer settings

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Make copies of costume packaging onto bright white paper. Cut out, score on tab and center lines, fold tabs in and fold the packages in half. Glue a bag together by the tabs on each side, using a quality glue stick. Using a 1/8” round paper punch to punch out the half-circle at the top of the package.

Create a hanger for each package by wrapping a length of 24-gauge wire around an approx. 1-1/4” wide metal ruler, crossing the two ends of the wire at the top of the ruler and, while grasping the ends, twist them together three times. Snip off on of the two extending ends. Insert the hanger up into the package until the other extending end of the wire pokes out thru the punched hole in the top of the package. With the help of round pliers, loop the wire-end into an inverted U shape ending just past the three wire twists, making sure the inverted U is round enough and of a size to fit over the rod, hook, or nail you will hanging the costumes from.

Fill the bags with snippets of fabric, ribbon, fun fur, chenille stems, or what-have-you to simulate the costume pictured on the package, letting the content hang partially out of the bottom of the package.

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HALLOWEEN PULL-TOYS

You will need: copy of printies + black & orange Fimo + craft glue & Krazy glue+ orange & green acrylic paint + Diamond Glaze + 3/32” thick board or wood + 3/16” & 1/16” paper punches straight pins + four brass/gold or silver colored ¼” long bugle beads + buttonhole thread + two seed beads + wire cutters + safety glasses

Instructions:

-Make copy of mirror image printies. Carefully cut out the images.

-Soften a color of Fimo that is complimentary to the printie…black for the cat and orange for the pumpkin. Roll it smooth & flat with pasta machine or by putting a 3/16” thick piece of book board or stripwood on either side of the Fimo and with the edges of your rolling pin (or similar tool…but if you don’t have one, a child’s rolling pin is perfect for these small projects) resting on the book board/stripwood roll over the Fimo until it is flush with the book board/stripwood. Bake the Fimo according to package instructions.

-Glue one of the mirror images to the prepared Fimo and use a shape, pointed knife to carefully cut out around it. Glue the 2^nd image to the other side of the Fimo, making sure it is lined up with the other one, and then if necessary use knife, files, and sandpaper to make both sides even and the Fimo smooth. Note: If you don't like working with Fimo, a piece of Balsa wood may be used.

-From the extra images of the cat cut out the head and glue it to a scrap of the prepared Fimo and when glue has set, cut out around the Fimo and glue in place over one side of the head on the cat.

-On the cat add Diamond Glaze to the eyes and on the pumpkin to the facial features.

-From 3/32” thick board or wood cut out bases to a size that is pleasing to you and paint them, orange for the cat and green for the pumpkin.

-For each toy punch out four, 3/16” diam. rounds from 1/16” board for the wheels (color of your choice) and four, 1/16” rounds for the for hubs (color of your choice). Poke or drill a hole thru the center of the wheels large enough to take a straight pin snuggly.

-Put on safety glasses and then cut the head off a straight pin. Insert it into the hole in a wheel so one end is flush with the outside of the wheel. Glue the hub over the hole on the outside. Add the tiniest dot of Krazy glue to where the pin touches the wheel on the inside. Insert a bugle bead on the straight pin and then push the end of the straight pin into a 2^nd wheel and push it up until the whole wheel/axle assembly is approx. 3/8”…put the safety glasses back on and nip off the excess pin. Glue the hub on this wheel. Make two of these assemblies for each toy. Glue the wheel assembly to the underside of the base, set in about 1/8” from the ends.

-Poke a hole centered in one end of the base and glue the end of a length of buttonhole thread into it. You may also just choose to make a knot in the end of the buttonhole thread and glue it centered to the end of the base if you do not want to make the hole. Decide on the length you want your pull cord to be and knot it at this point, pulling knot tight. Slip a seed bead (your choice of colors) onto the thread, snug it to the knot and form another knot and snug it up to the bead and tighten it. Cut off excess thread leaving a tiny tail, fray out the tail a bit.

-Now you can go play, especially if you wore your safety glasses while cutting the pins…the pins can fly across the room and you don’t want one in your eye!

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to computer.

Set to print at exact/actual size or 5.85"w x 3.26"h

Print onto Bright White paper using best printer settings

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LOLLIPOPS IN DISPLAY HOLDER

You will need: Scrap of ½” thick Foamcore (the same thickness of Balsa wood may be used if desired) + copy of the front & back of display holder onto cardstock or Glossy Photo Paper + copy of lollipops on Bright White paper + large sewing needle + asst. glues +1/4” round paper punch + scrap of white poster board + thin bamboo dowels of the type used for skewers, match-stick blinds, placemat, etc. (bamboo is used here because of its strength even when cut very thin. Note: 2^nd stores are a good source for one-of’s re this type of bamboo…you will find many uses for it in your work) + clear nail enamel

Instructions for Display Holder:

-Cut the body of the display holder from a scrap of 1.2” thick foamcore, using the half-circle display signage piece as a pattern.

-Cut out the front and back printies of the display-holder and glue them in place to each side of the display-holder.

-Using the same paper as for the front and back of the display-holder, cut a ½” wide strip long enough to fit completely around the holder. Glue it around the outside of the holder, starting and stopping at center bottom.. Use your thumb nail to meld the side and face pieces together for a smooth finish.

-Use a needle to poke holes in the holder to hold the lollipops, making the holes three deep from front to back, and stagger the holes from each other in each row.

Instructions for Lollipops:

-Using a ¼” round paper punch, punch out the mirror image printies of each lollipop and 12 poster board rounds.

-For each lollipop glue a matching printie to the front and back of a poster board round, making sure to line up the fronts and backs with each other.

-Using a needle or pointed stylus to open up a hole in the bottom edge of a lollipop.

-Cut very thin slivers of bamboo and cut into approx. 5/8” length for handles. Insert the handles into the poked holes in the bottom of the lollipops with a tiny dab of glue to hold. Pinch tightly to close.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.80"w x 2.77"h

Print Display Holder onto Presentation Paper or Glossy Photo Paper

Print lollipops onto Bright White paper

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GHOST SWAG

You will need: fine broom straw (small versions brooms of this type are often found in craft stores or check you whisk broom) + 30 gauge wire, brown or rusted (wire may be painted a rust color or soaked in a solution of ½ cup hydrogen peroxide, 2Tbs vinegar & 1 1/2tsp. salt to rust) + printie of banner of choice on manila paper + printies of stars and ghosts on matte presentation paper + Sienna Brown watercolor pencil + scrap of thick fun foam + medium/large ball stylus + Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Glue

Instructions:

-Make a bundle of straw approx. 3 ¾” long that when squeezed will be approx. 3/16” thick. Wrap the bundle, tightly, around and around, one end to the other with wire, leaving a bit of raggedy ends. Shape the straw rope as shown.

-Choose the banner you like & carefully cut out. Using the sienna brown watercolor pencil, on a slant, feather the color lightly around the cutout for a weathered look. Lay the printie face down on a piece of fun foam and draw on it with a round stylus to slightly indent, giving it some dimension. Put tiny dabs of glue on the top corners of the banner and attach hanging from the swag, centered side to side and towards front edge. The crafters pick will grab and hold in place in a minute.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 1.90"w x 1.76"h

Print onto Manila folder paper or manila colored card stock

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-Cut out a moon of your choice and prepare with watercolor pencil and stylus as for banner. Glue it centered on face of swag with the bottom just touching the banner

-Cut out the stars and prepare them with watercolor pencil and stylus as described above. Glue them on face of swag, centered on either side of the moon.

-Cut out ghosts and prepare as for banner with watercolor pencil and stylus. Cut lengths of wire and glue one end approx. halfway down back of ghosts. When glue has set, trim wire so that there is enough length to glue the other end under a star and hang to length desired…see photo. Glue in place with tiny dabs of glue.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.47"w x 4.09"h

Print onto Natte Presentation Paper at best printer settings.

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-Make a wire hanger by twisting parts of the length around a needle here and there and then stretching it out a bit. Shape approx. as seen and form ends into little loops. Add dabs of glue to the end loops and glue to back of swag.

-Cute, huh? Hang from cart.

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When Witches Fly, a Halloween Glitter Tree

You will need: two black 6mm chenille stems (metallic tinsel stems used here …JoAnn’s Fabrics purchase…for the glitter effect but regular black stems may be used) + small sharp scissors + blunt edge wire cutters + strong craft glue such as Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky + Krazy/Super glue + tweezers + white buttonhole thread + scrap of matt board + black acrylic paint + optional: fine black glitter + assorted size rounds punched from poster board or assorted sizes of round beads + orange or copper colored fine glitter + 1/8” silver foil stars + appropriate sized mirror image stickers of either a witch or bat with some metallic trim if possible (as seen a Joann’s Fabrics purchase from tattooking)

Instructions:

1. Use scissors to trim chenille off of the stems, fairly close to the wire.

2 Use wire cutters to cut a 2 ¼” trunk from the trimmed stem.

3. Cut an approx. 3/4” round or square of matboard for the base. Make a hole in the center of the base to take the end of the trunk. Paint base black. The black base may also be coated with fine black glitter if desired. Glue the trunk in place in the base, making sure it is straight; let glue set.

4. Cut the rest of the trimmed stems into segments; six bottom branches 9/16” long, 6 next to bottom branches 7/16” long, 5 next to top branches 3/8” long & 5 top branches 1/4” long.

5. Make a small puddle of tacky glue and one of Krazy glue in throw-away containers (I save and use bottle caps for this purpose). Add the bottom branches evenly around the trunk, starting ½” up from the base. To do this hold a branch with tweezers and dip one end slightly into the tacky glue and then into the Krazy glue and then place directly onto the trunk, at a right angle. Hold for a few seconds until the glues grab. The Krazy glue will take hold instantly and help to hold the branches until the tacky glue sets. Space the branches evenly around the trunk. Add the next set of branches in the same manner, 3/8” up from the bottom branches. Add the next set of branches 5/16” up and the top branches 3/16 up from the last branches.

6. When glue has set you may choose to cover any obvious “glue-globs” with black acrylic.

7. Decorate the tree as desired. To replicate the sample: Use various sizes of rounds punched from poster board or round beads (sample used punched rounds but in retrospect I would have chosen beads). Coat them with tacky glue and dip into orange or copper extra fine glitter. Note: if using beads hangers may be added with fine wire. Fold a length of wire in half forming the top into a loop ending in a twist. Insert the ends into the bead and bend the ends back onto the bottom of the bead, cutting off any excess. Glue the rounds or hang the beads just under the ends of the branches, staggering the sizes from larger at the bottom to smallest on top. Glue a silver star onto of branch ends, directly above the orange balls. Glue the same stars up the trunk, one each in the spaces between the branches. Add a sticker tree topper and back with a mirror image of the same, enclosing the top of the tree trunk.

Note: If you would like a smaller tree look in the archives for The Easter Cart.

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GREETING CARDS & DISPLAY STAND

You will need:

printies of cards onto your choice of papers (Bright White is the easiest to work with; Matte Presentation Paper has more body but a bit stiff to hold a tight fold; Semi-Gloss Photo Paper gives the best image but also a bit stiff to hold a tight fold & printe of signage on either semi-gloss photo paper or matte presentation paper + ¼” square stripwood + scrap of matboard + craft glue + black acrylic craft paint

Instructions

Make printies of cards & display sign. Cut and fold cards.

Cut six lengths of ¼” square stripwood, each to desired length of finished display shelf…sample is 2 ¼” long. You will want to lay out the cards you wish to display on a shelf to see what the overall length of a filled shelf needs to be.

Stack the wood strips together, with glue, like steps…1, then two high, & then 3 high. When glue has set, sand smooth and paint as desired… Folk Art’s sequin black used here for a bit of glitz.

The whole display stand is glued to a matboard base which was cut the same width and ¼” deeper than the shelf, with the extra depth extending out the front. Another piece of matboard, the same width as the stand and ¼” higher, was cut and glued to the back of the stand with the extension to the top.

Cut the sign out and glue it to the back of the stand with the wording facing front and set up high enough to sit above the top row of cards…which means you may want to position it after the top row of cards are in place.

Display the cards with the shorter ones in the bottom row and stagger the sizes on up as much as possible.

Click on sign image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.62"w x 1.34"h

Print on semi gloss photo paper or matte presentation paper

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.28"w x 2.25"h

Print at best settings on you choice of papers.

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HALLOWEEN BOOKS

You will need: printies of book pieces on Bright White paper + scissors or craft knife & straight edge to cut out printies + quality Gluestick + small flat paint brush

Instructions:

-Cut out printie cover & two matching page strips.

-Score, fold & clip cover as shown. Open up. Glue all folded edges to inside of cover using glue stick and a brush to apply. When glue has set, fold back and front in on spine lines.

-Each book has two page rows. Glue stick the last page of the top row evenly to the first page of the bottom row, back to back to make one long page strip.

-Fold the page strip accordion-style, starting on the left side with an outward fold and then an inward fold and so on. Crease heavily.

-Working on the backside of the folded-page-strip use glue stick, applied with a brush, to adhere sets of pages together, starting with the 2^nd & 3^rd pages (the first and last pages are the end pages so do not glue these). Pinch the pages together to make sure all pages are lined up.

-Add glue to the back side of the first page and adhere it to the inside of the front cover, leaving a small border of cover paper all around. Do the same with the last page, adhering it to the inside of the back cover. Pinch or press the book flat until all glue has set.

-Grab a “cuppa”, put your feet up and enjoy some good “reads”.

Click on image to enlare. Copy and paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.39"w x 9.14"h

Print onto Bright White paper with best printer settings.

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HALLOWEEN FRIGHT TREE

You will need: small, thin twigs (dried oregano stems from the garden used here) + a container for the tree + a scrap of Styrofoam + black acrylic craft paint (Folk-art Sequin Black used here) + Crafter’s Pick Ultimate or Incredibly Tacky glue + assorted Halloween sequin-type confetti (this comes in packages offering a variety of sizes & designs…works well for various mini-projects)

Instructions:

-Look to the garden or houseplants for very thin dried stems. You may also look at faux plant material for suitable stems. Or you may create your own with fine, cloth cover wire. Paint the stems with black acrylic, or if you wish to retain the natural color, coat with a clear matte finish….this will make the stems stronger and more flexible. Note: As seen the tree is on the large size because it is meant to be used as a display for selling ornaments or at this size it would work well for a yard display. But it may be made any size, very small for a table topper or medium-sized for a floor piece, etc.

-Choose a suitable container, anything from a mini cauldron to shapely bottle top, the size depending on how tall your tree will be. Stuff the container with a chunk of Styrofoam. Paint the whole container, including the Styrofoam black.

-Dip the ends of the stems into craft glue and poke into the Styrofoam in the container, adding stems & arranging until the whole is pleasing to your eye.

-Dip the very tips of the confetti into glue and hang from tree. Note: Incredibly Tacky should hold almost instantly but if you have problems or are using a regular tacky glue you may wish to use a combination of tacky glue and cyanoacrylate glue/Krazy/Super Glue (make a small puddle of both, dip very tip of confetti into first tacky and then Krazy and quickly place on tree). Finish by adding tiny stars all along the stems.

Click on image to englarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 1.58"w x 2.91"h

Print onto Matte Presentation Paper

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HAUNTED HOUSE TABLE DÉCOR

You will need: cardstock printies of house etc.+ 3/32” black fun foam sheet + black acrylic craft paint + black permanent marker pen + quality glue-stick such as Avery or Scotch brands + extra fine black glitter & silver or white extra fine glitter + Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky glue + black metallic tinsel stems + medium ball stylus + #30 gauge wire

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.26"w x 2.91"h

Print onto Matte Presentation paper.

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Instructions:

-Carefully cut out two mirror images of the house. Color edges of cutouts with black marker pen. Paint the backs of the houses with black acrylic paint (not marker pen).

-Using CENTER pattern cut out 3 pieces of black fun foam & glue them sandwiched together. Note: Other materials may be substituted getting as close to the thickness as possible & then painting it black before assembly. Glue the black side of the houses to either side of the fun foam piece, bottom edges even and centered side to side.

-From the same fun foam cut a BASE per pattern. Pour some extra fine black glitter onto a piece of waxed paper and spread out. Coat the top of the base with glue stick and press onto glitter on waxed paper. Do the same for the base edges. Shake off excess glitter…you want a fairly even coating of glitter.

-Glue house to base with tacky glue, approx. ¼” from front edge of base and centered side to side.

-Scrape glitter off of the walkway area of the base. Using a brush, apply glue-stick on the walkway area and sprinkle with silver or white glitter.

-To create the bushes on either side of the walkway, cut snippets from black glitter-tinsel stems. Glue them in place. Add shiny orange no-hole beads to the bushes with the tiniest dots of glue….add the glue to a bush, one dot at a time and then pick up a bead with pointed tweezers and apply to the glue…6-8 beads should suffice.

-Carefully cut the ghost out and lay it upside down on a scrap of fun foam. Use a medium ball stylus to “draw” over the ghost in a rotating manner causing it to have dimension and slightly curve. Add him to the base with a bit of glue.

-To create the haunted tree, cut a 7” piece of #30 gauge wire. Fold it in half three times. With the aid of needle nose pliers, grasp the wire about ½” up from the bottom and twist tightly for a tree trunk. Cut the top loops apart and splay out at crooked angles for the branches. Cut trunk down to desired height. Glue in place to base.

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YARD SIGN DECORATIONS

Make copies of printies on Semi-Gloss Photo paper. Cut out. Paint wooden sandwich pickswhite and glue centered down back of signs.

Paint your choice of containers black and when dry glue-stick on an advertising sign printed on Bright White paper. Fill container partially with Styrofoam to hold pick in place. Arrange signs in container, snipping off the length of some picks to allow for the best view of all signs.

The signs may also be used to hang from doors or porches by omitting the picks, punching two 1/16” holes in their top and adding a fine wire or thread for hanging.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.48:w x 2.89"h

Print onto Semi Gloss Photo Paper on best printer settings.

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Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 3.59"w x 1.49"h

Print onto Bright White paper at Best printer setttings

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TRICK OR TREAT BAGS

You will need: printies of bags + thread such as Knit-Cro-Sheen http://www.amazon.com/Knit-Cro-SheenCrochetThread.com + quality glue stick http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Glue-Stic.com + Crafter’s Pick Ultimate glue http://www.crafterspick.com/allpurposeglue.html

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.05"w x 6.58"h.

Print onto Bright White Paper at Best settings.

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Instructions:

-Cut out printed bags. Score and fold on all lines. Glue-stick side over tab. Glue bottom closed by first folding in the end tabs and then gluing the large flap over them and then the smaller flap to the large flap. Glue the top hem to inside of bag. After glue has set, crease the narrow end sections of the bag down their centers from top to bottom.

-With your fingertip wipe craft glue onto a piece of cotton thread, such as Knit-Cro-Sheen, color of your choice, and hang to dry. Cut & shape bag handles from this stiffened thread…two for each bag. Glue the handles to the tabs as shown. Glue handle tabs inside the bags, slightly down from top edge and centered side to side, handle ends hidden behind tabs.

Note: If you are into fun/repurposed jewelry, these bags make darling earrings

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WITCHY-WAY WEATHER VANE

You will need: 3 or 4 mm cube spacer beads (these are approx. 1/8”sq.) http://www.beadaholique.com offers these + Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky glue + small bell shaped bead (wood one used here, approx. 7/16” h & 3/8” bottom diam. but many differ shapes with these approx. sizes can be used) + flat black acrylic craft paint & Sequin Black craft paint from FolkArt. + #24 gauge cloth covered wire + ¼” die cut confetti alphabet letters (look in Party Stores) + printie of witch on Matte presentation paper + 1 ¼” long eye pin

Instructions:

-Working on a piece of waxed paper, lay down a cube bead with its hole facing up. To it glue four cube beads, one to each outward side, with their holes facing outward (these will be the holes that will hold the directional wires. Glue two more cube beads stacked, evenly on top of the center bead, holes facing upward….these will be the holes that hold the figural wire.

-Make sure your bell shaped bead is even across the top and sand so if necessary. Punch a cardstock round and glue it to the bottom of the bead (larger end) to seal the hole. Glue the smaller end of this bead evenly to the bottom of your stacked cubes…this will be the part that attached to the roof.

-When all glue has set paint the assembly black with acrylic craft paint.

-Cut four, ¾” long pieces of #24 gauge wire. Glue a wire centered, across the back of each of a N, S, E, W letter from the confetti package. Make sure the letter is at a right angle to the wire. When the glue has set paint each wired letter black. And when the paint is dry glue the wire ends into the holes of the four corner bead cubes making sure the letters are straight.

Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 3.67"w x 2.10"h

Print onto Matte Presentation Paper

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-Carefully cut out the mirror images of the witch. Glue the eye pin to the center of one witch, positioning the pin so the witches toe is just touching the pin…this should make her flying correctly. Use a brush to apply glue-stick to the inside surfaces of both witches and sandwich them evenly together, enclosing part of the eye pin. Pinch tightly to make sure all is sealed. Paint the assembly black and when dry insert the wire into the hole in the top bead with glue to hold at height desired.

-Paint the completed weather vane with a coat of Sequin black acrylic for a metallic look.

-Glue centered on top of cart.

-The weather vane can be weathered/aged with rust or start with a copper color and add a weathered verdigris patina.

-You can change the sizes of the basic pieces as desired and add a different figure to the top of the weather vane to top a house or garden shed.

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Joann

TO SCALE A Miniaturist's Guide

2011-09-12T18:29:00.000-07:00

Booklet Cover

Set printer to print this page at 7.55"w x 10.36"h

If you want a booklet cover print onto cardstock.

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IN SCALE

Reducing full-sized pieces to a correct scale can be a challenge to many miniaturists. Here you will find charts and illustrations to help make this challenge easier by saving the time and hassle of researching with each new project. Do keep in mind that there is always “an exception to the rule” and one can generally modify the measurements found here, to a certain extent, to accommodate space limitations in your settings.

Of course knowing how to use a ruler…as in “what do all of these little lines mean?”… is the first thing one needs to know. Online, How Do I Read a Ruler, http://www.onlineconversion.com/faq_05.htm has an excellent, well-illustrated, easy to comprehend guide to understanding rulers. Check it out.

You can use the scaled rulers included here, on the People pages, to help accurately reduce the size of a room or piece of furniture. Jim Collins’ printie site http://www.printmini.com offers scaled rulers that once printed can be laminated. Here you will find the 1”=12” ruler http://printmini.com/printables/rulers/1=12rule.pdf . Hard versions of scaled rulers can be purchased from miniature dealers. This type of tool is a time saver and a must for the DIY miniaturist.

Turning the illustrations of the Scaled People page into “paper dolls” (by printing them onto cardstock, cutting them out and then laminating them) will also help you to judge, by the eye, whether a room or object is in scale. Well, done and perfect scale 6” action figures (such as some McFarlane creations) also work well for “eye-balling”.

Unless fantasy or whimsy is your goal it can take just one out-of-scale piece to ruin an illusion. Do keep in mind that the in-scale we strive for in our hobby does not mean just the height or length of a piece, it also includes the thickness.

Viewing a photo or scan of your project is a good way to check for scale, as an “offending” piece will usually “scream at you”. In lieu of a photo or scan, form your hand into a telescope and observe your work through it….a quick and easy way to spot problems. You will find that the more you work in the scale of your choice the easier it will become to “eyeball” your projects for accuracy.

Print out the pages and stack them together to form your own TO SCALE booklet. I have added instructions to the sidebar here on how to print my pages in black text without a black background.

Keep creating and sharing …the secret to the Miniature Hobby,

Joann

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Set to print this page at 7.78"W x 10.56"H

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Set printer to print this page at 9.41"W x 7.24"H

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Set printer to print this page at 8.74"w x 4.45" h

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FULL SCALE LUMBER—ACTUAL DIMENSIONS:

· 1x2’s = ¾” x 1 ½”

· 1x4’s = 3/4” x 3 ½”

· 1x8’s = ¾” x 7 ¼”

· 2x2’s = 1 ½” x 1 ½”

· 2x4’s = 1 ½” x 3 ½”

SHINGLES:

· 16” L - 5” of shingle exposed

· 18” L – 6” of shingle exposed

STRUCTURE ELEMENTS:

· Ceiling height – standard is 8 feet with some newer, grander homes up to 10 feet; older homes 10 – 12 feet or more. Note: a typical miniature room box has 12 “ceilings for ease of viewing.

· Door height – 80”

· Door widths – exterior 36”; interior 24”,28”, 30”, 32”, 36”, 42”

· Door knob, floor to knob – 36” – 38”

· Stair riser – 7”H

· Star treads – 10”D

· Stair’s hand rail – 30 ‘ -34”H

· Standard brick – USA, 8” x 4” x 2.25”; United Kingdom, 8.5” x 4” x 2.5”

MATTRESSES:

· Crib -28”W x 52”L; 5” to 6” long

· Twin -38”W x 75”L; 8”thick

· Double or Full – 53”W x 75”L; thickness can vary from approx. 5” to 22”

· Queen – 60” W x 80”L; thickness can vary from approx. 5” to 22”

· King – 76”L x 80’L; thickness can vary from approx. 5” to 22”

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Set printer to print at actual size

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Set printer to prnt this page at 7.61"w x 10.04"h

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Set page to print out at 7.66"w x 10.01"h

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Set printer to print page out at actual size or 8.00"w x 10.72"h

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Set page to print at actual size or 8.06"w x 10.62"h

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Hello Everyone...Yes I am "alive & kicking", but it was nice to be missed by so many of you that wondered where I was. Sometimes a body & mind just needs a little rest and the older I get the more I tend to listen & obey. I have been plugging away here and there at the TO SCALE pages for you and I hope you find them useful. I have laminated copies of the pages tacked up in my workroom/studio (I call my space a studio the few times it is neat and tidy and workroom the rest of the time) for instant access as needed. I also have the pages in booklet form by my computer. I remind you again that I have added printing instructions on the sidebar so you can print out in black text without the black background of the blog....I know the black background bothers some of you but it is the design I chose and I have to stick with it for the time being.

I have started a Hallween project for your enjoyment and it will be a progressive one with bits and pieces added over a couple of weeks, so stay tuned. Hopefully you can have it finished in time for October decorating.

See you soon,

Joann

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