Friday, June 15, 2012



In the past I have given you two other Peddler’s Carts projects, Baskets & Bunnies with an Easter theme (April 2011) and a Halloween Cart (Sept. 26, 2011).  These carts have been so well received and fun to fill that I have created a third in what has become a series, AMERICANA MEMORBILIA.  This cart has a patriotic, red, white and blue theme.  Over the next few weeks I will periodically be adding themed projects to fill in and around the cart.  I am sure you will also come up with some ideas of your own or find miniatures in you collection to add to the cart’s display.  You may also choose to not build the cart itself and just create the smaller projects, picking and choosing from them to use or display as desired.

Don’t forget to check back often to see what has been added. 


Full-size picnic tins are a passion of mine. This is a scaled down version of one from my collection. Display it closed or open and filled.

You will need:  a piece of wood 1 ¼” L x 7/8” D x ¾” H  (to be used as a form or a base…see instructions.  If you don’t have this size stripwood be creative &  stack thinner pieces together to get the needed thickness or  make the piece from Fimo or Sculpey clays)  +  dull, silver metallic cardstock  +   silver inked pen or water color pencil +  Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Glue   +  quality glue stick   +   printies on bright white paper   +  cotton buttonhole/top stitch thread  +  Rub ‘n Buff in silver   +  a satin or semi-gloss finish that is compatible with your printer ink  +  ¼” silver or aluminum colored  tape  +  #34 gauge silver wire


A bit fiddly to make but the realism is worth the effort.

Here the piece of wood called for above will be used as a form to be removed after the tin is completed.  You will be able to open and close the tin and fill it as desired.

Round off corners and edges of the wood form with sandpaper and sand smooth.

Print out at exact/actual size or 5.23" w x 2.26" h
For the sides of the tin’s base, cut a strip of dull, silver metallic cardstock, 4 ½” x ¾”.  Wrap the cardstock strip around the wood form to shape, silver side in and starting at center back.  Mark the overlap on both strip ends.  Remove the strip from the form.  Draw a line where marked & lightly score the lines, one on a white side and one on a silver side,  with just enough pressure to cut only the top surface of the cardstock.  Gently pull the top layer of the paper off the scored sections, one silver, one white.  This will make the overlapped seam less thick and noticeable.  

Use a silver inked pen to color the top edge of the cardstock strip…this side will be the top of the side piece.

Print out at actual/exact size or 5.47"w x 3.21"h

Wrap the prepared strip back around the form, silver side in, gluing the piece together by prepared overlap sections.   This forms the “metal” interior of the base.  Leave the cardstock sides on the form through the next steps.

Push the base-sides slightly down the form so that its bottom edge is not touching the form.  Run a thin line of Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Glue around the very bottom edge of the sides that is extending off the form.  Press the side piece onto a scrap of the silver cardstock, silver side facing up.  When the glue has completely set, trim the bottom piece to fit flush with the base sides.  Slide the base back up the form.

Coat the bottom of the base with glue stick and press it onto another scrap of silver cardstock, this time with the silver side facing outward.  Make sure the two bottoms are firmly and smoothly together.  When glue has set, trim the 2nd bottom to the size of the first.

With the cardstock base still on the form, use a gluestick to cover the exterior sides.  Coat the back of the tin side’s printie and apply it smoothly & evenly to the cardstock base.  Center the printie on the front of the tine and start and stop at center back with a slight overlap.  This forms the tin’s base.

Set to print at actual/exact size or 5.79"w x 2.57"h
Print onto bright white paper using best printer settings.

For the lid’s sides, cut a 3/32” x 4 ¼” strip of the silver cardstock.  Wrap this strip around the outside of the tin’s base, which is still on the form.  Overlap and glue the lid’s side piece, following the procedure described above for the tin’s sides.  When glue has set, push the lid side strip slightly up and over the tin’s base so the top edge of the lid’s side piece is not touching the base sides.  Run a thin line of glue along top edge of lid side and press silver cardstock lid top onto it, silver side down.  When the glue has set, trim the cardstock lid to fit the lid’s side piece.  This procedure will give you a perfectly filling lid. 

Using glue stick, coat the top of the lid and then press on the lid printie, centering it.  Make sure all edges are glued down.  Slightly round-off corners of printie with scissors.  Clip all around corners.  Apply glue, not gluestick, on underside of clipped corners and edges of lid printie and press to lid sides.   Trim cover paper to fit sides and remove any excess corner paper as needed, for a smooth finish.  Use thumbnail to fully smooth the corners.

Print at actual/exact size or 4.93"w x 4.70"h
Print onto bright white paper at best printer settings.
Cut a length of cotton buttonhole thread  & coat smoothly with Silver Rub’n Buff and hang to dry.  Use this to trim around the bottom edge of the lid and base, starting and stopping at center back, using Ultimate glue sparingly and wiping away any excess for a neat finish. 

 Paint the outside of the tin and lid with a light coat of a antiquing medium, such as Folk Art Down Home Brown Antiquing Medium mixed half and half with a clear acrylic medium such as Folk Art Gel Medium

Coat the outside of the tin’s base with a satin or semi-gloss, clear finish that is compatible with your printer ink.   I use Epson ink and use clear nail polish.  Test the finishes you use on a sample sheet before antiquing or glossin your picnic tin.  Remove tin from form.

For hinges, cut two pieces of silver/aluminum tape, 3/32” x 3/32”.  With lid in place on base, press 1/2 of one of the hinges onto the back of the lid, 1/8” in from the sides.  Smooth it down and over the edge trim, and down onto the tin base.  Repeat for the 2nd hinge.  Open and close the lid several times.  If the tape does not want to stick, gently lift it up, a section at a time and add Ultimate glue to hold. 

For the handles, cut the two strips from the handle-paper-printie.   Fold each strip into thirds, holding with glue for a 1/16” width. Shape handles per diagram.  Poke tiny holes thru handles on each end, approx. 3/32” in from the sides.  On the tin, measure in 3/16” from side edges of base, and 1/16” down from bottom of lid, where it sits on the tin.  Mark small dots at these four points.  The marks on the back will be on the hinges.  Using a needle or straight pin, poke small holes thru the marks on the tin.  Cut four pieces of #34 gauge silver wire, 1” long.  Tie a tight knot in the center of each wire, using needle nose pliers to pull the wire.  Fold wire ends down away from the knot for a double thickness of wire.  Insert a prepared wire into a hole in one handle end.  Pull wire thru until the knot is against the handle.  Using needle-nose pliers, crimp knot to handle.  Insert ends of this wire into a hole in the tin base, open lid and pull wires thru.  Holding wire knot tightly to the tin base from the outside, flay wires out in opposite directions until they touch the inside wall of the tin.  Clip off wire ends to approx. 1/16” each.  Repeat this procedure for all four ends of handles, reshaping the handle as needed to conform to the shape of the picnic tin.  The handles should be able to glide up and over the top of the tin and back down to the sides with relative ease.  When the handles are working, as they should, antique & coat them with a semi-gloss finish as was done for tin.   Display your picnic tin open or closed.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 3.16"w x 3.45"h
Print onto bright white paper at best printer settings.


An easier version to make and good for display but it will not open.

Prepare a piece of wood 1 ¼” L x 7/8” D x ¾” H  by rounding off corners and edges with sandpaper and sand smooth….this will  be used as a base for the tin.   If you don’t have this size stripwood be creative & stack thinner pieces together to get the needed thickness or make the piece from Fimo or Sculpey clays).

Glue the tin’s side printie around the wood base, centering it on the front & overlapping slightly on center back. 

Glue a piece of silver/aluminum colored cardstock to the bottom of the tin, silver side down.  When glue has set, trim cardstock to match base.

Glue the red lid printie centered to the top of the base.  Clip corners in several places and then glue down the sides.  Use thumb nail to smooth the corners as flat as possible. 

Coat a length of cotton buttonhole/top stitch thread with silver Rub ‘n Buff.  When it has dried, glue it around bottom edge of sides, starting and stopping at center back and around bottom edge of the lid, starting and stopping at center back.

Prepare & add faux back hinges as described for open version of tin.

Prepare handles from printies as described for the open version of the tin.  Either glue in place as desired or attach to tin with #18 brass escutcheon pins.

Antique/age the tin as described for the open version.

If desired, do a search for vintage picnic tins for many other covering designs to use with these patterns.



Always a favorite with tots, vintage pull toys are also used as home d├ęcor.  This a fun little project.  The results can find a place in your miniature settings, from a children’s room to a table top or, of course, on the shelves of a toy store.

General Instructions: 
Create printies onto matte presentation paper at best printer settings. Carefully cut out printies.  Color the very edges of the cut-outs with a damp, black water color pencil…don’t forget to do this as it gets rid of the paper look.
Knead Fimo until it is pliable.  Lay it on a piece of glass.  Place two lengths of 1/8” thick stripwood on either side of the Fimo.  Using a small rolling pin or something similar, roll out the Fimo to a 1/8” thickness by letting the ends of the rolling pin rest on the strip wood.

Glue-stick one of your cutouts to the prepared Fimo.  Let the Fimo sit for a bit the warmth of working it is gone & it is harder.  Using a fine tipped knife carefully cut around the printie, keeping the cuts straight up and down.  Turn the piece over and glue the mirror image printie in place.  Use a round toothpick or what-have-you to smooth out the cut edges and trim as needed.  Bake the prepared assembly on glass or tile following Fimo package directions. Add a tiny scrap of your Fimo of the same thickness as your work and this can be used to test for doneness….when cool it should be somewhat flexible without breaking or chipping.  Note: It is a really good idea to have a small toaster over dedicated to craft use.  A simple model of these can be had a very low price    
Further prepare your printie assembly per specific instructions as follows.
To prepare pull-toy base cut a length of stripwood & paint it with acrylic craft paints.  It may be as is or glossed.
Using a 3/16” paper punch, create 4 round wheels from 1/16” or so thick paper, color of your choice.  Using a 1/6” round paper punch, create 4 hubs from scraps of matte presentation paper.  Marking the approx. center of the wheels, use a straight pin to make holes thru the wheels.   Insert a straight pin into and thru a wheel almost to the pin head.  Snip off the pin head flush with the outside of the wheel (wear safety glasses, as the snipped pin can fly).  Glue a hub onto the wheel, over the pin head.  Slip a bugle bead onto the other end of the pin.  Push a 2nd wheel onto the pin and push it almost up to the end of the bugle bead.  Snip off the excess pin (don’t forget those safety glasses) and then glue on a hub.  Make two of the wheel assemblies.  Glue them by the bugle bead to the underside of the prepared stripwood set in approx. 3/16” from each end.  

Cut approx. 4” of buttonhole thread.  Tie a knot in one end and cut off excess thread to knot…this end will be glued to the front end of the base.  Tie another knot approx. 2 ½” away from the first knot and slip on a seed bead (if the hole in the seed bead is large than your knot, create a double knot).  Tie a knot at the other side of the seed bead, snugged up next to it.  Cut off thread approx. 1/8” beyond the seed bead and fray out the cut end.

Specific Directions:


Cut out the extra boat bottom printies and glue them to a scrap of matte presentation paper for a double thickness.   When the glue has set cut them out.  Color edges with black water color pencil.  Glue over the like image on the baked boat piece, one to each side. 
Paint area of the Fimo where the brown rooftop would be with acrylic craft paint in a matching brown. 
Cut out the tiny flag and fold in half on center line.  For the flag pole, cut a cat-whisker- like thickness from a bamboo skewer (bamboo is quite strong, even at this thickness).  Glue it sandwiched between the flag with just a tiny tip sticking out the top.  Cut the entire pole (including the part in the flag to about 3/8” length.  Use a needle, pin or needle tool to poke a hole in the roof top about a 1/6” deep.  Glue the flag pole into the hole.
Using Diamond Glaze (a great product with many miniature uses if you haven’t already tried it  )  coat the three round windows, the captain’s hat & clothing, the bird and the roof and the flag.
Glue the boat bottom centered on the base. 

Use a caramel color Fimo for the giraffe.  Cut off the horns and tail from the printie mirror images. After the giraffe has been baked cut out the giraffe face/ear mirror image printies, without the horns.  Color the backs of these pieces to match the light color on the giraffe. Apply glue stick to the back of the faces but not the ear part. Glue the face pieces to their matching parts on the giraffe.  Bend the ear sections forward, adding dimension. 
On the top of the giraffe, mark the placements of the horns.  Use a pin or needle tool to ream out a shallow hole wide enough to take a straight pin.  For the horns, use wire cutters to cut off approx. 3/16” of a straight pin, measuring from the top of the pin head down.  Glue these pieces into the holes in the top of the head.  Paint them a deep grape color.  
For the tail, use a needle tool, ream out a hole in the back of the giraffe for the tail.  Using a short length of fine cording (a dark purple color used here), such as Knit-Cro-Sheen, tie a knot a shirt way up one end.  Fray out the short end of the cord, just past the knot and then cut the fray to approx. 1/8” length. Cut the other end of the cord to an approx. 3/16”.  Add glue to this cut end to stop any fraying.  Insert the glued end into the reamed hole in the back of the giraffe, holding with glue.
Prepare the base, wheels, and pull cord per general directions, using colors of your choice.
Add Diamond glaze to the eyes and nose.

Using a deep blue Fimo  prepare mirror image printies as described in general instructions & bake. 
Using deep yellow acrylic craft paint, color the chicken’s comb, beak, & waddle.  Continue the waddle & beak color across the Fimo front of the chicken.  You may choose to gloss the yellow if desired.
Cut four wing sections from the extra printies (don’t forget to color the printed edges black); cut out and glue mirror images together to form two double thickness wings.  Glue the wings, by their very front edges, over the wings on the chicken so they are at an angle from the chicken. 
Construct the base, painting it the same yellow as the chicken’s beak, etc.
Click on image to enlarge.  Copy & paste to your computer.
Set to print at exact/actual size or 7.70"W x 3.23"H
You may also use the key to scale to get exact size.
Print onto matte presentation paper using best printer settings.


Make printies of flags onto bright white paper.  Cut out mirror images as one piece.  Fold in half and glue together using a quality glue stick.  Shape flag, as desired, by gently rolling with the help of a thin dowel. 
Glue flag edge to a turned-end toothpick,   

Toothpicks may be used as is or stained, painted, or glossed.  Completed flags may be painted with a semi-gloss finish if desired….make sure the finish you choose is compatible with your printer ink.

Printie for cover paper for your flag container.
Click on image to enlarge.  Copy & paste to your computer.
Set to print at size you need to cover your Flag Container.
Print onto bright white paper at best settings.
Display flags in a container of your choice.  As seen it is a simple, empty plastic container, painted white on the inside and covered on the outside with a length of ribbon.  A piece of Styrofoam was wedged into the lower half of the container and flag “poles” were poked into it.   

 Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to your computer.
Set to print at exact/actual size or 6.85"W x 10.02"H
Print onto bright white paper at bet printer settings.



Make printies onto matte presentation paper.  Cut out a crown, brim, and top piece for each hat.  Lay the crown, upside down, on a flat, giving surface (I use my knee) and roll over it with a piece of 3/16” diam. dowel or such until it coils over on itself. Glue side over tab.  When glue has set, gently shape crown to shape of top and glue top in place.  

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy & paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.71" W x 5.15" H
Print onto matte presentation paper using best printer settings.
Color the bottom and edge of the hat brim to match its blue top, using craft paint or water color pencil.  Or you may choose to print extra copies of the brim, cut them out, and glue them back to back, then coloring only the edges. Slice an X into the hat brim. 
To slightly turn up the brim edge, place it, right side up, on the  palm of your hand or a piece of fun foam  and run a large ball stylus around it slightly away from the edge.  Glue crown centered over brim & let glue set.
With small or cuticle scissors, cut out brim’s center to fit crown.  Note: If you are using the hats for display only you need not cut out the brim opening as the bottom will not be seen.



Make color copies of pinwheel paper onto bright white paper.  Cut out squares or rectangles; fold rectangles in half.  Glue two squares together, back to back, using a quality glue stick, applying glue to each backside   

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or  4.8" W x  5.1" H or use the Key to Scale as seen.
Print onto Bright White Paper at best settings.

When glue has set, fold the square on the two diagonals, creasing strongly; open up.  Mark the center of the square with a pencil dot.  Using small, sharp scissors, cut along the diagonal lines towards the center as shown in diagram. 
Put a dab of heavy craft glue such as Crafter’s Pick Ultimate in the center of the square.    Using pointed tweezers, or needle nose pliers  , bring alternating points of the square into the middle using a rolling method.   Press tips into the glue.  Where the paper folds over should be rounded and not creased.  You may have to hold the point down for a bit until the glue grabs.   

For the center you will need an approx. ¼” (from point to point) sequin star, with or without a hole.  These may be red, white, and blue, gold or silver (a craft or party store purchase).  You will also need a small-bead head straight pin (found with sewing supplies) in your choice of colors.  Lay the sequin star on a piece of craft foam or other giving surface.  Poke a bead-head pin into and thru the star and then into and thru the center of the front of the pinwheel.  If needed, the tiniest dot of glue may be used to hold the star assembly in place. 

Add a dot of glue behind the pinwheel and slip a small seed bead (your choice of colors) up 
until it touched the pinwheel.  Grasp the pin just behind the bead with needle-nose pliers; bend the pin to form a right angle.  Paint pin with white acrylic craft paint.

If desired, clear nail polish or an acrylic gloss finish (depending on what your printer ink is compatible with) may be painted on the pinwheels for a glossy finish.


Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 3.35"W x 1.18"W
Print onto Semi-gloss Photo Paper at best printer settings.
Cut the body of the Pinwheel display stand from a scrap of ½” thick foamcore, using the semi-circle printie piece as a pattern.
Glue a printie to the front and back of the foamcore display stand.
Using scraps of the semi-gloss printie paper, cut a ½” wide trip long enough to fit completely around the holder.  Glue the strip around the outside of the display stand, starting and stopping at center bottom.  Use your thumb nail to meld the side and face pieces together for a smooth finish.




Print birdhouse pattern onto plain paper.  Print patterned paper onto matte presentation paper.  Cut out the pattern and clip it evenly to the patterned paper; carefully cut out.  With pattern still over the patterned paper, use a pointed stylus and a small straight edge to score on all fold lines.  Mark the entrance hole and the perch hole.  Punch out an entrance hole by centering a 1/8” round paper punch                                                         To create the entrance-hole star, punch a 1/8” hole in yellow craft paper. Center a ¼” - 5/16” star paper punch over the hole and punch out a star.  Glue the prepared star over the entrance hole. 
Fold house and glue side over tab.  Fold in bottom section and glue tabs to inside of bottom of house.  Using tweezers to press tabs to inside walls makes this job easier. Fold top tab to inside so they are at right angles to the house. 
As seen the roof is “tin” cut from an aluminum tea candle holder.  Remove candle (these containers are a good item to add to your mini stash as they come in handy for many projects) and using scissors (not your good fabric ones), cut the sides from the bottom.  From the side piece cut a 1-1/2” x 5/8” piece.  Lay it on a slightly giving surface (tablet or scrap of matte board?) and using a pointed stylus draw around the edges, 1/16 in from the outside of the edges to tool in a design/rim.  Fold the roof piece in half, open it part way and glue to the roof tabs of the house.  You may choose to weather/age/rust your roof a bit with acrylic craft paints.
Open up the perch hole with a needle and enlarge with a pointed stylus so it is large enough to take a perch of your choice…I use snippets of twigs/grape vines, etc.  Glue perch in hole and snip off excess length to make the perch the size you desire.
This pattern may be used with any number of small patterned papers

Click on pattern to enlarge.  Copy and paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.42"W x 2.48"H
Print onto matte presentation paper at best printer settings.


Print house and roof onto matte presentation paper using best printer settings.  Carefully cut out the pieces. Glue roof pieces back to back & set aside.  Use a 1/8” round paper punch to make the entrance hole by centering the punch over the marked round.  Score the tabs and corners of the house (btw, I find this easier to do before cutting out).  Glue the side over the side tab.  Fold the bottom tabs up and glue them flush into the bottom of the house.  Fold the top tabs back. 
Score and fold the prepared roof piece in half and glue, evenly, it to the top tabs of the house.
Add a perch as described for house #1 above.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy & paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.34"W x 2.14"H
Print onto matte presentation paper using best printer settings.


Cut an 8” length of gold tone Candlewick Yarn or other soft, cotton, 4 strand threads. Fold it in half and thread the looped end of the thread into a large eyed needle (a darning needle works well).  Insert the needle into the bottom hole in the front of the box and then into & thru the hole in the bottom of the box.  With the thread loop extending out the bottom of the house insert the ends of the thread into and thru the loop.  Pull the ends of the thread tightly causing them to rest against the bottom of the house, with the loop connection at the back edge of the bottom of the house. 
Lay the house on a flat surface with the extending two threads straight under it, side to side.  Glue the lettered blocks to the threads, starting about 3/16” from the bottom of the house & continuing down the thread with slight separations between each block..  When glue as set tie an overhand knot, joining the two threads, so the knot is just under the last block.  Cut off excess thread leaving about a 3/8” tail.  Fray out the ends of the thread up to the knot.  Using a double thickness of the thread make a bow that is about  5/8” from end to end.  Cut off extending thread leaving approx. 5/8” tails.  Fray out the tips of the tails.  Glue bow to tail thread, just under the bottom of the house.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy & paste to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 5.67"W x 3.09"H
Print onto matte presentation paper at best printer settings.
By the way, these birdhouses can make darling jewelry (earrings &necklaces) if they are finished with a protective coating of clear acrylic or such.


You will need:  book/binder’s board (see note below) in approx. 3/32” thickness  +  cover paper of your choice or use printie given here +  a quality glue stick 
 (  )  +  ¼”x 1/16” stripwood  +  white acrylic craft paint  +  3/32” dowel  +  ¼” square stripwood  +  4 straight pins and a wire cutter  +  ½” X 1/16” stripwood  +  ¾” x 1/16” stripwood  +  swag printies on matte presentation paper +  3/16” square styrene tubing  +  two wheels of your choice with an approx. diam, of 1-3/4” to 2-1/8” +  printies of signage on matte presentation paper

You will be making a simple box using book board.  NoteTo try to answer the question many of you have asked, book board (also called binder’s board) is a type of laminated chipboard.  A good quality book board is acid free and is what is traditionally used for book covers.  It is very dense and strong, consequently it resists warping as sheet wood can do.  It is easily cut by hand with a sharp craft knife. It comes in a variety of sizes & thicknesses and can be found in art supply stores, craft stores in scrapbook supplies and offers it from several places including Blick Art Materials.  The carts measurements are based on a thickness of approx. 3/32” which is somewhere around .080 to .082. thickness. You can use a 1/16” thickness which is approx.060, making any necessary adjustments overall.  As I said it is just a simple, easy to construct box.

Copy and paste the pattern sheet to your computer.  
Set to print at exact/actual size or 6.92"W x 8.99"H

Cut two sides pieces 5-1/8” x 1-13/16”, two end pieces 2-9/16” x 1-13/16”, a top and a bottom piece 5-1/8” x 2-3/4”.  Glue the edges of a side piece to the face of the top piece, outside edges flush.  Glue the edges of the end pieces to the face of the top piece and of the side piece, all outside edges flush.  Glue the second side piece in place, long edge to the face of the top piece and its face to the edges of the end pieces, all edges flush and all squared up.  Glue the face of the bottom piece to the edges of the side and end pieces forming a closed box.  Cover each piece of the box with a light weight, fine striped wallpaper in appropriate colors.  A quality glue stick is a good choice for adhesion here.

Copy and paste image to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.25"W x 10.70"H
Print onto bright white paper using best settings

Cut four, 2-3/4” lengths of the 1/4” x 1/16” stripwood; paint white.  Glue one each to the top and bottom of the face of the 2 cart ends, all edges flush.  Cut four, 1-1/2” pieces of the ¼” x 1/16” stripwood and glue to face of ends, framing in the ends. Do double check to make sure the measurements given here will fit your cart and make any necessary adjustments. 

 Using 1/4” x  1/16” stripwood cut two top-of-sides, trim pieces, 6 ¼” long.  Round off one end as shown.  Using a needle file, ream out a hole thru the rounded end of these two trim pieces.  The holes should be just large enough to take a 3/32” dowel snugly. Glue these two pieces to the sides of the box, top edges flush, the back ends covering the edges of the back trim, and extensions to front.  Use the 1/4" x 1/16" strip wood to frame around the rest of the two of the two sides, as seen in the diagram& photos.

Cut a length of 3/32’ dowel slightly longer than the span between the two holes in the top trim, approx. 4 ½ “. Paint white.  Insert dowel into outside of one hole and then, with a bit of glue, into inside of the 2nd hole until it is flush with the outside of the 2nd  hole. Trim dowel so it is flush with the outside of the 1st hole.  A bit of glue may be wiped over the cut ends of the dowel.  Lightly sand all dowel ends just a bit & touch up with paint..  You now have the cart base.  

Copy & paste pattern sheet to your computer.
Set to print at exact/actual size or 7.74"W x 10.83"H

From ¼” square stripwood cut four, 4” lengths for the uprights and two 2-5/16” lengths for cross pieces (double check for the length you will need before cutting); paint white.  Mark an X in the bottom of each upright to find its center.  Insert the end of a straight pin about 3/16” of an inch up into the center of the X; clip off the pin leaving about 3/16” extending (Make sure to wear safety glasses as cut pieces can fly) .  Add a bit of glue to the pinned ends of the uprights and pound them into the corners of the top of the cart, just inside the trim edges.  Make sure they are standing squared-up with the top of the cart.   Glue the braces between the uprights, one in front, one in back, both 1-7/8” up from top of cart.   

  From ½” x 1/16” stripwood cut two top braces 5-1/4” long.  Paint the inside of these pieces to match your cart.  Glue a ½” painted side of each of these pieces to the outside of the uprights, top edges even and corners squared-up.

From 1/16” thick matboard cut 2 canopy end pieces per pattern.  Paint the insides of the canopy-end pieces to match cart trim (white).  Cover the outsides with the same paper used on the rest of the cart. Glue the prepared canopy-end pieces to the outside faces of the uprights which include the edges of the top braces, outside edges flush.
Cut a 5-3/16” length of ¾” x 1/16” stripwood for canopy top support.  Paint the undersides white to match the cart.  Glue the ¾” ends of this piece to the faces of the canopy end pieces, top edges flush.

Cut a 4” x 5-3/8” piece of cart wallpaper for canopy.  Find the center of the canopy paper and glue it centered onto the canopy top support and on the top edges of the canopy end pieces.  Slightly crease the paper along the edges of the top support.   Continue gluing the canopy in place, along the slanted edges of the canopy end pieces; crease canopy paper along the top braces and then continue gluing the canopy along the front sides of the top braces.  Doing a dry run with the canopy paper will help with this job. 

Copy and paste printie to you computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.68"W x 8.16"H
Print onto matte presentation paper at best printer settings

Using cut-outs from matte presentation paper swag printies, glue a three-swags piece across sides of cart  along face of bottom edge of canopy.  Cut out two single swag printies with longer star border attached and glue centered to top ends of cart, in line with the top side printies, Match up star borders and cut off excess so the border looks like one continuous piece.  Cut three-swag printies to fit into cart sides and glue in place along top edge.  Cut single swag pieces with extending star boarder to fit onside cart ends, centered side to side.

For the cart axle cut a 2-1/4” length of 3/16” square, white styrene tubing (a model railroad supply)  .  Glue the axle across the bottom of the cart, 1-1/2” away from the back edge of the cart.

Wheel from Metal Miniatures

For your cart’s wheels look to 2nd hand stores for interesting wheels on children’s toys.  You will be surprised at how many interesting ones you will find….not just on trucks and cars but wagons, carts, etc.  As seen on this cart the wheels are approx. 2-1/8” diam.  but the size can vary depending on what you want and what you find.  Metal Miniatures  has a 2-1/8” and other size wheels that will work.  Some wheels will be great as is others will probably need to be painted.  Ou can add black treads by paint or paper strips (quilling paper works great esp in a pearlized dark grey from lake city craft ).  Cut a 3-3/4” length of 3/32”or 1/8”  bamboo skewer (bamboo is stronger than dowel).  Use a needle file to make holes in wheels of a size to take the skewer snuggly.  Push it into a wheel with glue until the an end is flush with the outside of the wheel.  Pass the dowel thru the axle and add the 2nd wheel.  If necessary or desired hubs may added to cover the ends of the bamboo dowel.  These can be simple punched rounds, decorative jewelry findings, sequins, etc.  Of course these measurements, etc. are just a generalization and may be adjusted to suit your wheels or tastes.

Cut a cart foot per pattern (or higher or lower if needed to make cart stand evenly) from your book board scraps.  Cut a piece of ¼” square stripwood the same length as with width of the foot for a brace.  Glue the brace to one side of the foot, evenly across the top.  Glue the brace/foot assembly to the underside of the cart, set in ¼” from the front edge of the cart, centered side to side.

Copy and paste signage printie to your computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.25"W x 7.93"H
Print onto matte presentation paper using best printer settings.

Print signage onto matte presentation paper.  Cut out large signs, a worded front and a plain back. Glue them sandwiched together.  Use a black permanent marker pen to color the very edges of the signs.  Fold back the tabs and use them to glue the signs to the top of the canopy, set back approx. ½” from the front edge.  Cut out the smaller signs and glue them to the canopy end pieces, just above the star border of the swags and centered side to side.  Carefully cut out eagles and glue them back to back with a 1-1/4” eyepin sandwiched in the center, plain end of pin extending out the end.  Paint extending pin white.  For the base of my eagle I used a pawn from a chess set but any small turning or even a wooden bowl turned upside down could be used…look thru your stash.  Drill a hole in the top of the turning to hold the pin and hold with glue.  Glue the eagle assembly centered on the flat top of the canopy.

And there you have it, a peddler's cart ready for you to fill with Americana Memorabilia.  As seen the cart sits on a 8" X 10" glass fronted, white picture frame. A printie of a rustic, wooden floor is seen thru the glass.  This gives you more display room.
Have fun!


Hello  Everyone,
It feels good to finally be back in my workroom…time to myself has been fairly limited as of late…not complaining because it is all positive, but as the song goes,  “a girls gotta do what a “girls” gotta do”, and for me that is creating miniatures.  So I will continue to squeeze out some time to get the Americana Cart filled up.  Do let me know how you are enjoying the project; your words inspire me in the wee hours of the morning as I work.


PS…A shout out to all my new followers and visitors, especially to those many who have found my blog thru…what a fun, interesting and inspiring site it is!  I am constantly amazed at how many miniaturists there are around the world.  Some say the hobby is on the decline, but if your response to my blog is any indication “they” are, I am happy to say, mistaken….”carry-on”!!!