THE LITTLE RED SCHOOLHOUSE

VILLAGE LITTLE RED SCHOOLHOUSE

The Little Red Schoolhouse is the 4^th structure in my Little village series of  tiny printie, cut & glue buildings.  It can be used as a stand-alone piece displayed under a glass dome and such, or it can become a toy in a dollhouse or toy store, etc.  It can also be transformed into a glitter building (as described for the church in this series) or become part of a snow village.

To construct the Schoolhouse print out a copy of the pdf file at the very end of this post onto matte presentation paper using your printer’s best settings. This will give you a true to scale, true to color, detailed printie.  When the ink has set, use small sharp scissors to cut out the building.

Using a pointed stylus & a straight edge, score across all tabs, sides and bottom lines.  Fold the side and bottom tabs in at right angles. Using glue stick applied with a small stiff-bristled brush glue sides and bottom together to form the shape.

Cut out roof.  Score across both lines.  Fold & glue stick in half so that the underside of the roof as marked is on the bottom.  When glue has set, fold in half again.  Use a gray watercolor pencil to color white edges.  Fold the top tabs of the building in at right angles.  Using glue stick adhere the roof to the top of the building so it sits evenly.

Cut out the steeple and glue it together as for the schoolhouse.  Glue it evenly to the top of the schoolhouse.  Prepare the steeple’s roof as for the schoolhouse roof.  Before you glue it in place, use a needle to poke a hole in in its center.  Glue the roof in place on the steeple. 

Cut out windows and glue stick over matching images on the building. 

Roughly cut out door and glue to a double thickness of a scrap of the same paper.  Cut out and glue over its image on the building.

Glue the triangle overhang to 5 layers of scrap of the same paper.  Cut out and glue in place on the building.

Rough cut the school sign and glue it to two layers of scrap of the same paper.  Cut out.  Color edges with a watercolor pencil in a tint close to the color of the schoolhouse.  Glue in place on the building.

Cut out the flag & score in half (this is probably easier to do before cutting it out).  Cut about a 3/8” long piece of very thin brass wire.  Fold the flag in half on the score line and glue it around the wire, tops even.  Poke the other end of the wire into the needle hole in the steeple roof, adjusting its height to your liking.

To create the tiny Schoolhouse Vignette as scene here:

The school sits on a base of a 1-7/16 sq. matboard.  To prepare the base paint the top a grass green.  

Cut a piece of lightweight gray paper to shape shown on diagram and glue (gluestick) it in place for the walkway & sidewalk.

Trim the edges of the base with a fine gray cording such Bunka using  a craft glue such as Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate.

Glue the schoolhouse in place on the base.

Using a fine model railroad turf/grass such as                                         http://www.amazon.com/JTT-Landscaping-Material-Blended-Autumn/dp/B002PP0GNE sift it with a fine mesh strainer to get the finest of the material.  Using a small stiff-bristled brush, apply a light coating of glue stick to the green area of the base.  Immediately sprinkle on your prepared grass and lightly tamp with a dry small bristled bush.  Tap and shake off excess grass.

For hedge use a green pipe cleaner -these are narrower than the usual chenille stems.  Paint with green acrylic paint to covering any exposed wire.  When the paint has dried t trim about half of the “fur” off all around the wire. It should be no thicker than the space in back of the schoolhouse.  Sharply bend and cut two pieces, each to fit across the front of the lawn/down the side/and to center back.  It may take a while to get the exact fit with sharp corners but keep tying on until they fit.  Using craft glue put them in place on the base.

For interest I added a white “post” on either side of the entrance  that sits a bit higher than the hedge.  A section of round toothpick, especially one with a carved top, can easily be sanded down and shaped a bit to use here.

http://www.peoplescale.com/

 http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com

Seven school children with back packs are in front of the school, (N Scale from PeopleScale,  http://www.peoplescale.com/ ). There is also one dog  ( n scale Dogs and Cats from Woodland Scenics (these are oh so tiny…one is forever lost on my workroom floor)  http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com ) who followed its master to school & is being told to “GO HOME!”

“School Days, School Days, Dear Old Golden Rule Days…”

PDF FILE TO PRINT OR DOWNLOAD:

"FASHION"- A VILLAGE CLOTHING SHOP

“FASHION”

A LITTLE VILLAGE DRESS SHOP

“FASHION” is the 3rd structure in my series of tiny printie, cut & glue, paper buildings. As with the others, it can be used as a stand-alone piece, showcased under a dome and such, or it can become a toy in a dollhouse toy store or child’s room, etc.  You may decide to transform it into a glitter building as was done for the Church in a previous post here.

 As seen, the shop has been glued to a 1-7/16” sq. matboard base topped with gray paper.  The edges of the base are covered with gray bunka cording http://secondchildhoodminiatures.com/supplies.html , starting and stopping at center back.  After the shop has been glued in place, both sides of it have a low planting (a green pipe cleaner -these are narrower than the usual chenille stems- painted with green acrylic paint to cover any exposed wire.  When the paint has dried the “fur” of the stem is trimmed almost to the wire.  Two pieces the width of the sides of the building are cut and glued to the base, snugged to the building.  For interest, the tiniest of red “berries”, sifted from Woodland Scenics’ Fruit are glued on the greenery, here and there (these are three bags of the tiniest of no-hole bead, one each of red, orange and white.  They have many uses mini-wise, think maraschino cherries, holly berries, & so on)

 http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/T47/page/1

A sign out front (printie) tells us “Fashions” is having a sale and our village ladies have turned out to shop for good bargains.  (Window Shoppers & Pedestrians from Woodland Scenics N Scale www.wow.com/Woodland+Scenics .)  

INSTRUCTIONS:

Using the PDF file attached, print out the building on matte presentation paper using your printer’s best settings.

Cut out the building; score on tabs and bottom/sides lines.  Fold side tabs to inside at 45 degree angle to sides.  Glue front and back to sides on tabs. 

Fold in roof tabs at 45 degrees.  Cut out roof, score across center both ways.  Glue in half with lined section to top.  Use a watercolor pencil in a shade to match roof color to cover the white edges.  Fold across center and glue to building’s top tabs, centered all the way around with folded edge facing front.

Glue the four windows and the door to a scrap piece of the same paper.  When glue has set cut them out.  Use watercolor pencil to cover the raw edges.  Glue in place, evenly, over the matching ones on the building.

Glue the FASHION sign onto a double thickness of a scrap of the same paper.  When glue has set cut out and glue evenly over the sign on the building. 

Score across the canopies/awnings just above the scallops.  Cut out and fold the scallop edges down.  Glue the back edges to the top edges of the three display windows at a very slight downward angle (so the rain will roll off, lol).

Cut out the three door steps & glue them stacked together.  Glue the straight edge to the building, just under the door.  You may choose to stagger the steps by cutting two back a bit so the step is not too high.

I like to use an acid free, blue glue stick for adhering paper on paper, especially with tiny pieces.  It is more forgiving/moveable than craft glue.  And the disappearing color lets me know that I have the glue where I want it.  I use Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate for everything else here, including the canopies.  And again, I can’t recommend these high enough, Dr. Slick Razor Scissors      http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Slick-Razor-Scissors                  I really love them, especially for cutting tiny bits and pieces.

 Have fun, and hurry because it is only a “ONE DAY SALE”!

On the pattern file below you can click on Zoom In to see the whole file before you print or save it.  Don't forget to use your best printer settings before printing. 

VILLAGE BARBER SHOP

The Barber Shop is the 2^nd structure in a series of tiny printie, cut & glue, paper buildings. It can be used as stand-alone piece, showcased under a dome and such, or it would work for toys in a dollhousetoy store or child’s room, etc.  You may decide to transform it into a glitter building as was done for the Church in my previous post here.

As seen, the shop has been glued to a matboard base and accessorized with N scale figures…a man sitting on a bench, a man arriving for his haircut, a dog and a garbage can.  N scale is a tad bit large for the building but I am pleased with the way it looks.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-People-Benches   Explore Woodland Scenics http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com  and http://www.PEOPLESCALE.COM.  for a nice assortment of well-done figures and accessories Or if you have a local model train shop, do check out their inventory.  There also is a smaller scale, Z,  that can be used, if your eyes and fingers can handle it.

YOU WILL NEED: 

printout of patterns on matte presentation paper (acid free) see PDF file at the end of this article  +  small sharp scissors (Dr. Slick brand is recommended)  +  short straight edge & pointed stylus for scoring  +  pointed tweezers  + Craft glue such as Crafter’s Pick, The Ultimate & quality acid free glue Stick  +  gray water color pencil  +   2 tiny pearl seed beads +  clear nail enamel  +  Optional (if you want to make the tiny diorama as scene): N Scale model train figures & accessories +  bits of greenery snipped from green chenille stems painted with green acrylic paint  for weeds/grass  +  scrap of matt board for base   +   Bunka cording to cover edges of base 

 INSTRUCTIONS:

Print building and accessories patterns onto Matte Presentation Paper using best printer settings.   Printing out the pdf file found at the end of this entry should give you a perfect printie, size, color, etc.) 

When ink has set, cut out building; score on side/base lines and on all tabs.  Fold side tabs in at right angles.  Glue front and back to side tabs.  When glue has set, fold top tabs in at right angles. 

Cut out roof; score across roof on both fold lines.  Glue the white sides of the roof together smoothly.  Use a gray water color pencil to color the raw edges.  Glue roof evenly to top tabs of building with folded edge to front.

Glue the uncut door and windows to a scrap of the same paper.  When glue has set, cut out the pieces and glue them evenly over corresponding ones on the building to add dimension. 

Glue the uncut Barber Shop sign to double thickness of scraps of the same paper.  When glue has set, cut out and glue pieces over matching images on building.

Roughly cut out the door step and glue it over a double thickness of scraps of the same paper. Cut out; color the edges with a gray water color pencil (or you may choose to use the white side of the paper).  Glue the flat edge to the building, centered under the door.

Cut out the barber pole.  Lay it face down, on a giving surface such, as sheet fun foam, or even the palm of your hand.  Roll over it with a round toothpick until it starts to curve inwards.  Use your fingertips to roll it tightly back and forth until the roll has about a 1/16” diameter.  If necessary, glue the seam to hold.  Glue the pole to the front of the building, centered side to side, between the front window and the side of the building, and in line with the window, its seam to back. Glue a tiny pearl seed bead.to the top and the bottom of the pole. 

If you wish to showcase your barber shop in a tiny diorama or turn it into a glitter building, use the instruction given in the previous post here, The Church, as a guideline.

“SHAVE & A HAIRCUT, 2 BITS”

THE VILLAGE CHURCH

This little paper structure that I have created for you was originally intended to be a stand-alone project for a bit of Easter whimsy, in the Glitter House genre.  And it turned out as planned…a fun little something to sit on a miniature mantel or center a holiday table, or be placed in a shop window & so on.  But something happened along the way, as often happens while creating… I found I also really liked the looks of the unadorned church. 

So much so that I became intrigued (or carried away) with thoughts of other buildings until soon I had a whole “Little Village” sitting before me, with even more in mind.   Each of no particular scale or style, just fun figments of my imagination. 

  Since I have come to realize from many of you that creating printies directly from Blogs does not give one the high res, desired for the clarity of  detail of the originals, I am at kind of a crossroad as to a solution.  I spend much time on details and it troubles me that you are not getting what I give you.  Suggestions have been made that that I open an Etsy store to offer there, for sale, hard copies of my printies.   So while you work with The Church (it is the least detailed piece of The Village buildings), I will decide what I want to do to make sure that you can have the best of what I do to create with.  Do let me know what you think.

Joann
PS
Go to the end of this post...I have a headache,lol, 
but I was able to add a pdf file
for the church pattern that will enable you to print
it to the correct size, color, and detail of the
original.  You can print it directly from the blog or
save it to your computer.  Do make any necessary
adjustments to your printer, re best settings & paper
type.  Do let me know how this works for you...as great 
as it worked for me I hope.  
Now I have to go lie down for awhile, hahaha.

TO CREATE THE CHURCH YOU WILL NEED:

Color copy of printie on matte presentation paper using best printer settings and using guide to scale key for sizing  +  small sharp scissors (Note: for years I have been using Gingher 4” Embroidery scissors http://www.amazon.com/Gingher-01-005290-Embroidery-Scissors-4-Inc for everything small and own multiple pairs but recently I was turned on to Dr. Slick Razor Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Slick-Razor-Scissors by Karin Corbin   http://karincorbin.blogspot.com (great blog - be sure to check out her wonderful laser cut Glitter House Kits).  These surgical quality scissors are wonderful, so sharp that they come with a “use at your own risk” warning.  They are perfect for making tiny tight cuts, etc.  Wish I would have known about them years ago…thanks Karin)   +   pointed stylus or similar tool & a straight edge for scoring paper +    +   quality craft glue such as Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate   http://www.amazon.com/Crafters-Pick-Ultimate-Glue  and a quality, acid free  glue stick  http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Purple-Application-Permanent (I like this one because it goes on colored so one can see where the glue is and isn’t and it dries clear) + a brown & a grey water color pencil (such as 

 http://www.amazon.com/Generals-Pencil-Acid-Free-Non-Toxic-Watercolor )  + clear nail enamel 

DIRECTIONS:

Print the building on to the white side of matte presentation paper using best printer settings.  Use the 1” sq. Guide to Scale key given to make sure you are printing at the correct size….of course you may choose to print it to other sizes as desired or needed for your purposes.

Carefully cut out the building; score on building sides and side and bottom tab lines.   Fold the sides, side tab and bottom tabs of building in at right angles. Glue sides & bottom together on tabs to form the building. You may choose to use either glue applying carefully with a small brush.  Fold in top tabs at right angles to sides.

Before cutting out the roof piece, score across its center as marked.  Cut out and fold on score line.  Using a matching brown watercolor pencil, color the roof edges, and an approx. 1/8” wide border on the underside and, if needed, the peak of the roof on the score line.  Apply glue to the top tabs of the church and to the underside of the roof where it will touch the church.  Adhere the roof evenly over the top of the building. 

 Working on the steeple, score on sides and tabs & cut out.  Fold side tab in, to right angle and glue side over tab. Glue steeple to church roof, centered front to back.  Fold the steeple roof tabs in at right angles.  Score & fold the steeple roof across the center. Use the brown watercolor pencil to color it as for church roof.  Glue the roof evenly over the steeple.

To add dimension to the church, cut out the door and windows & steps altogether in one piece of the paper, not individually, and glue smoothly, face up, to a scrap of the same paper. When glue has set, cut out individual windows and door.  Color the edges of all gut the step with a grey watercolor pencil and the step with brown.  Glue prepared door and windows over corresponding ones on the building.  Using craft glue, adhere the straight edge of the step just under the door.

If you would like a cross atop your steeple, cut a long 1/32” wide strip from the scrap paper.  Cut it in half and glue one piece evenly across the other piece.  Before cutting out the cross cover the area of the paper that will be the cross with a couple of coats of  clear nail enamel…this will strengthen the paper.  When the enamel is dry carefully trim the top and sides of the cross to approx. size of diagram on project sheet…making bottom cut the last.  Now don’t breathe to hard or you may lose the cross.  Pick the cross up by the top with pointed tweezers, dip the very bottom into strong craft glue and place on peak of steeple roof, centered front to back. Double check to see that all is even. Once the glue has set you may want to add another coat or two of nail polish to further strength the paper.

Now you have the Village Church.  If you want to transform it into a Glitter Structure as seen:

YOU WILL NEED:

Extra fine glitter   http://www.amazon.com/American-Crafts-24-Pack-Extra-Glitter/   (you can use any color/s you want, just make sure it is extra fine…I used apricot on the roofs and sunflower on the building) + a glue stick and a very small flat bristled paint brush to apply it +  A scrap of matboard (1-3/8”w x 1-1/8” deep  used here but may be any size) + grass green acrylic paint + fine model railroad turf such as

http://www.amazon.com/JTT-Landscaping-Material-Blended-Autumn/dp/B002PP0GNE

& a fine mesh strainer/sifter + green chenille stem + tiny no-hole beads (color of choice for flowers on bushes…I used an orange/copper color) + fine cording/Bunka http://secondchildhoodminiatures.com/supplies.html  

INSTRUCTIONS:

GLITTERING

Use a small, flat-bristled paint brush to apply a thin layer of glue stick, to the buildings first, and then the roofs.  Work on small areas at a time, applying glue and then sprinkling the glitter over it, tapping off excess…you will want a light coating of glitter for this tiny piece as  you are  not  replicating snow.  Do not glitter the door and windows.   Work over a clean sheet of lightweight paper and before you change glitter colors, lift the paper by two sides so you can pour the excess glitter back into its container. 

BASE:

Cut matboard base to size & paint the top and sides a grass green. Glue the church in place on the base, back sides flush and centered side to side.  Draw a path/walkway from church step to front of base, shaped as desired or following diagram. Cut the path shape from a piece of white or off white scrap of the pattern paper (I actually cut mine from a Ralph Lauren paint sample, River Rock-Coastal Sand (love these paints) and pulled off & used the top ply of the paper).

For the lawn, sift the green landscaping turf to get the finest of particles.  Paint the grass area of the base with craft glue and sprinkle on the sifted turf.  Press it a bit for good adhesion and shake or sweep of excess.

For bushes paint a green chenille stem with a darker green than the lawn.  When dry cut 10, approx. ¼” snippets; touch up the exposed wire tip with paint.  

Using pointed tweezers glue the bushes to the lawn, three on each side of the church and two each along the edge of the pathway.  Using a toothpick apply little dabs of craft glue here and there on the bushes and immediately after each dab pick up a group of no-hole beads with the tip of a slightly moistened toothpick (yeah, I used my tongue)  and press them onto the glue. 

If you wish to add Mr. & Ms. Bunny to the scene carefully cut out the images given (I used a magnifying lamp for this job…these eyes are getting old).  Color the edges & back with a grey watercolor pencil and glue in place on path.

The base edges are finished with fine cording/Bunka in a light yellow glued in place, starting and stopping at center back.

May the Easter Bunny leave you a basket filled with love and wishes come true,

Joann

FOR MOTHER’S DAY

My idea of the prefect Mother’s Day gifts?…a delicious box of chocolates and a good book.  And lo and behold, here they are, in miniature of course.  Quick and easy little projects that can be used as accessories in many miniature vignettes.  

===================

A BOOK FOR MOTHER

Make a copy of the printie on bright white paper using best printer settings & a landscape setting.

Click on image; copy and paste to your computer.

Set to print at 8-1/16" w x 3.54"h

Cut out cover. 

Clip on 4 lines as shown.

Score on all lines.  Crease & fold all borders inward, using a quality glue stick to hold.  Fold front and back cover inward on spine lines.

Cut out pages in one continuous piece   Crease and fold the pages accordion-style, following  directions on printie. 

Glue pages together, back to back, in twos.  Do not include the smaller end pages. Press flat until glue has set, making sure that any excess glue is not causing the pages to stick together where they should not.  You may insert small pieces of waxed paper between pages to prevent any glue mistakes if desired.

Glue assembled pages into the prepared cover by centering the back sides of the end pages on the inside of the cover…do not glue anything to the spine.  Press the book flat until the glue has set.

For a glossy cover you may choose to coat it with a couple of coats of clear nail enamel or water based acrylic gloss or it may be covered with clear packaging tape. Do test your computer ink for compatibility with any finish you use.

You may choose to add ties to close your book.  If so, use fine sewing thread and work with longer threads that you will need.  Cut two lengths, one for the front and one for the back.  Glue them in place on the front & back cover before the pages are glued in place.  Glue them centered top to bottom and an end set in approx. ¼” from the front edge of the cover. After the book itself is complete, tie the strings into a tiny bow.  Decide how much string you want to extend beyond the bow and tie a knot.  Cut of excess string approx. 1/8” beyond the knot and fray out the cut ends, tassel like.

======================

BOX OF “DELICIOUS” CHOCOLATES

Make a colored copy of the 4 chocolate box parts and the

chocolates onto matte presentation paper using printer’s

 best settings.  Cut pieces out using a craft knife and straight 

edge, eliminating the black edge lines.  Score on fold lines

 using a pointed stylus & straight edge. 

CLICK ON IMAGE TO ENLARGE 

SAVE TO YOUR COMPUTER

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Glue tabs of box & lid pieces to inside.  Using a quality Glue Stick, adhere the top piece, centered, over top of lid and the bottom piece under the box. Using glue stick will give you more time for correct placement.

Using a toothpick, coat each chocolate on the chocolate insert piece with Diamond Glaze.  This will give the candies depth and dimension. If you feel that they are too glossy, add a light coat of clear semi-gloss acrylic over the top of the glaze.  In fact if you don’t have Diamond Glaze you can use acrylic glaze or even tacky glue in its place,   Allow to dry. Insert chocolate piece into box bottom. 

You can also choose to decorate the box top with the tiniest of nail art to add dimension & interest.  

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To all of you Mother's out there, do have a wonderful, loving day.  To all others, give your mother, grandmother, sister or any other significant  female in your life an extra hug,  just because.  

Joann

PS

I have not forgotten the shadowbox project, real life has just been so busy and sunny that I have ignored it for a bit.  But stay tuned for the end of section 5 and filling section 6.

POTTED IRIS

EASTER SHADOW BOX SECTION 5: FLOWERS OF SPRING

PART 3: IRIS

Iris has always been a favorite garden flower.  There are many varieties and different colors…shades of purples, blues, and white and yellow.  Here I have made a simple lavender, bearded variety but do explore others.  

You will need:  #30 cloth covered wire + ¼” round paper punch or ¼” long petal shaped paper punch + lightweight paper in your choice of colors (purples, lavenders, blues, yellows, white) You may also choose to color your own iris paper using an ombre method (a shading from light to dark)  + medium ball stylus + yellow acrylic paint & small pointed paintbrush (if you are adding beards) + scrap of thin Fun-Foam + medium ball stylus or metal nail file (using the tapered/pointed tip) + fine pointed tweezers Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate glue + green floral tape + leaf green color acrylic paint + medium weight leaf green paper

Instructions:

Cut wire to needed lengths and dip the tip of one end into golden yellow acrylic paint.  Poke into a scrap of Styrofoam to dry.

These flowers have three inner erect petals that surround the stamen and three outer sepals between the petals that curve back.  To create the petals and sepals you may choose to fold/crease a piece of your chosen paper, measure and mark a line 1/16” away from the fold/crease and then use a ¼” round paper as shown.  

Or you may use the paper punch as shown or something similar to create the petals/sepals. 

If you are adding beards to your sepals, use a small pointed paintbrush to feather yellow paint out from the pointed end of the three sepals…I suggest you look closely at actual photos.  As seen, I just paint an illusion but if you are so inclined you may be more precise with the beard or markings. 

Lay the petals and sepals on the fun foam, bearded side of sepals face down.  Using a stylus or similar tool, “draw” lines down each edge and then the center of each petal and sepal, causing them to curve and curl.

Using fine pointed tweezers pick up a prepared petal by the rounded end, dip the very tip of the pointed end in glue & place on a prepared stem, just below the painted stamen.  Add two more petals in the same manner, evenly spacing them from each other and in an almost upright position. 

Pick up sepals in the same manner, add glue to tip and place them on the stem just under the petals & in-between the petals, so they are curving out and slightly down.

For the ovaries cut 1/16” wide by ½” long pieces of floral tape and gently stretch them out.  Wrap one around a stem just up from the bottom.  Use fingertip to shape it into a slightly elongated ball.  Push it up the stem until it snugs up to the underside of the flower. 

Use leaf green acrylic paint to blend the ovary and stem and to slightly feather up and out on the bottom of the flower.

Iris leaves are cut and prepared as was described previously for the daffodil and narcissus leaves but with a more pointed, sword-like shape.  Leaves may be attached to a flower stem or surround the potted flowers.

Unopened buds are made by wrapping ¼” wide by ½” long pieces of green floral tape around the stop of a stem, stretching the tape as you wrap.  Use finger tips to form the top into a point.  Add an ovary as described above right under the bud and then use green paint to meld bud, ovary, and stem together.

Partially open buds are created by adding glue to the face of a petal and wrapping it around the stop of a stem.  Add 3 or more petals in this manner, depending on how open you want the bud, and then pinch and roll the top to a point. Add an ovary. Use leaf green paint to meld everything together, letting the paint go up in points on the petals.

As with the Daffodil and Narcissus, Iris may be potted, as is seen here, planted in a landscape, or used in flower arrangements by themselves or with other spring flowers.  Surround stems by lots of leaves, which should be of a height just short of the blossom or shorter.  I used a clay pot filled with unbaked, scrap Fimo.  The Fimo was coated with a layer of glue and fine dust from sphagnum moss (bottom of package?) was pressed on.  Holes were poked in the “soil” to take the flower stems and after they were in place buds and partially open blossoms were added.  Leaves filled in space in and around.

--------------------

Here are some real-life images & illustrations to help inspire you to add miniature Iris to your collection.  

ARRANGEMENT BY CARL STARKERS 

1953

-------------------------------------

I will be back soon with the Daffodils, Narcissus and Iris in place in the 5^th section of The Easter Shadowbox.  BTW you may be interested in making some other spring blooms too… Calla Lilies, Pussy Willow, Forsythia…if so they are to be found in my Easter Peddler’s Cart, Basket & Bunnies

 http://joannswansondiyminiatures.blogspot.com/2011/04/baskets-and-bunniesan-easter-peddlers.html

 Now  just one more section to go…like the flowers it will be miniatures that can be used in many scenes or added to a collection. 

Joann