Monday, May 2, 2011


Day One:

“Ah yes, the first of the week and the house is finally all neat and tidy…the pillows & magazines are all lined up, the books are neatly stacked on their shelf, the carpet is vacuumed, all is right with the world…and it is going to stay this way.   I am only going to craft in my workroom.  I mean it.  I will not bring one thing into this room that does not belong here!  Seriously, there is no need to bring projects in here to work on.  I know I have said this before but my new motto is a place for everything and everything in its place…I am turning a new leaf.” 

“Huh, what do you mean “that will be the day”?  If you don’t believe me just keeping checking up on me and see what happens!”

(Scroll down daily to find more Creative Mind projects and changes in the room)

Have fun and enjoy,

I have created this scene on a white 8” x 10” picture frame.  A piece of wool felt placed in the frame becomes a simple carpet. 


You will need: ½” thick foam core board (you may choose to use wood, making any necessary adjustments in the instructions etc.) + white fun foam + Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Glue & Sobo Glue or your favorite fabric glue + fabric of your choice, this should be a natural fabric such as cotton with a fairly tight weave + white cardstock (you probably have scraps of this or presentation paper leftover from your printies) + thin cotton batting or  cotton facial pads + four wooden beads or such for the feet., these should be 3/16” to ¼” high, wooden plugs from the hardware store were used here
-From ½” foam core board cut a sofa back 4 ½” x 2 ½”, a sofa bottom 4 ½” x 1 ¾”, two sofa arms 2 ½” x 1 ¾”, two cushions 2 ¼” x 1 ¾”.
-Working on the sofa back piece, use your thumb nail or a round pencil to compress the top front edge to round it off.  Cut a piece of fun foam to fit the whole front of the back piece from the bottom edge up and across the rounded top edge.  Use Crafter’s Pick glue to adhere the fun foam to the front of the sofa’s back piece.  Cover the front and sides of the sofa back piece in one piece of fabric, using glue sparingly; turning raw edges to the back, clipping and trimming the corners for a smooth finish.  To finish the back side of the sofa back piece cut a piece of card stock/presentation paper 4-3/8” x 2-3/8”.  Slightly round off the top corners. Cover this piece in the sofa fabric gluing only the edges which are turned to the back, clipping and trimming for a neat finish.    Glue this piece evenly to the sofa back
-Working on the sofa bottom, Cover it n fabric, turning the raw edges to the top surface, clipping and trimming the corners for a smooth finish.  The unfinished side will be covered by the cushions, but if your aesthetics call for it, you may cover it too.  Glue the back edge of the sofa bottom piece evenly to the front of the sofa back piece, bottom edges flush.
-Working on the arms, use your thumb nail or a round pencil to sharply round off the top edges.  Cover the arms from side to side in a piece of fun foam.  Trace the bare ends of the arms onto a piece of card stock and cut out.  Cover the cardstock pieces in sofa fabric, turning the raw edges to the back and clipping and trimming the fabric for a smooth finish.  Glue the four prepared end pieces to the fronts and backs of the arms.  Measure and cut pieces of fabric that will cover the arms from center bottom, up and over the top and down to center bottom, with a small glued hem on each long side.  Glue prepared fabric to arm with glue applied only to the edges and bottom. Glue the prepared arms to the sides of the sofa back and sofa bottom.
-Working on the cushions, Check to see if they fit on the sofa, taking into consideration the bulk of the fabric and trim as necessary.  Slightly round off the top front edges of the cushions.  Cover the tops with the cotton pads, stretching to fit.  Cover the cushions with fabric, turning raw edges to the back, clipping and trimming for a smooth finish.  Glue cushions in place on sofa.
-Glue four feet to the underside of the arms, set in approx. 1/8” from the front and back and centered side to side on the arms. 
-You may choose to add trim around the arms and cushions or a skirt around the bottom if desired.



Pillow tops are printed on quality printer fabric (EQ Printables premium cotton lawn 240 thread count used here).  Follow manufacturer’s and your printers instructions for printing on fabric.
Cut out the print, leaving a seam allowance all around.  After removing backing from printer fabric a single strand of sewing thread and a fine needle may be used to embroidery over designs.   Cut a fabric backing of the same size, either in a plain color or in the same fabric used for cushion tops.  You may use the conventional method of sewing three sides of the pillow with front and back placed wrong sides together, clipping corners, stuffing with cotton battings and then stitching the fourth side together.  Or use an easy method of folding back the seam allowances on both the pillow front and back, clipping corners, and gluing the front and back together on three sides, using a good fabric glue and the tiniest of seams.  Stuff the pillow and glue the fourth side closed.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Print onto a quality printer fabric following package directions
Set printer to print at exact/actual size or 8.47"W x 2.31"H

It’s day two and, hmmm, what do we see….
”Well a bit of needlework is not actually a project and it really does not make much of a mess and besides I need something to do to keep my hands out of the candy bowl.  And who can read magazines without a cup of tea?”


Cut two pieces of 3/32” thick book board or sheet wood, one 4 ½” x 2 ½” and one 4-⅛” x 2⅛”.  Sand as needed.  Glue the smaller piece centered on the bottom of the larger piece.  Paint the assembly as desired, buttermilk colored acrylic craft paint used here.  When dry buff to sheen.  For a shabby chic look edges may be sanded here and there to the raw material. 
Legs are four, 1-1/16” high wooden chess pieces.  If you have not added chess pieces to your “stash” do so, they come in many sizes and shapes and have many mini-uses.  You may also choose to use chunky wood turnings or fat square stock.  Paint the legs to match the table, buff to a sheen and glue to underside of table, edges flush with the smaller of the two top pieces.


Click on image to enlarge.  copy and paste to computer
Print on semi-gloss photo paper at best setting
Set to print at exact/actual size or 8.03"W x 2.45"H
Cut magazine printies out, score and fold on spine.  Hold a stack of about 6 sheets of paper together evenly.  Run a glue stick down one long edge of the paper stack and let glue set.  Use this paper to cut magazine pages which are just slightly smaller all around than the cover…the glued edge is the spine.  Glue the pages into the cover by the spine.



Print out the needlework printies onto printer fabric.  Cut a round of 1/16” white matboard of a size to fit under needlework.  Place the needlework over the round and glue it to the edges of the round.  Cut a 1/16” wide strip of buff colored cardstock and glue it around the outside of the cloth covered round.  A needle can be cut from a very think wire & inserted into the needlework with a strand of fine thread glued to the end of the needle and the other end to the needlework.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Print on quality printer fabric at best setting
Set to print at exact/actual size or 6.28"W x 2.12"H



You will need:  cardstock + 14 count vinyl cross stitch fabric + golden tan color acrylic paint & dark brown water-based gel stain + polyfill or cotton batting + thin silk or satin fabric of your  color choice + sewing thread to match fabric + tan buttonhole thread + 3/32” & 1/16” dowel + knit-cro-sheen thread

Cut work basket from cardstock.  Fold and glue tab to inside, forming a square.  Run glue along bottom edges & place a piece of cardstock.  When glue has set, trim the bottom to fit sides.
Cover outside with pieces of 14 count vinyl cross stitch fabric.  Paint the outside a golden tan and when dry lightly antique with a dark brown water-based gel stain to accent the woven pattern.
 Cut a cardstock lid to fit the box. Cover and finish the outside as for box.  Cut a piece of cardstock slightly smaller than the lid.  Lightly pad one side with Polyfill or cotton batting.  Cover over the batting with thin silk or satin fabric, turning raw edges to backside.  Glue wrong side to inside of lid.
Cut pieces of cardstock to fit inside of the sides of the basket, pad and cover as for lid lining but leave top edge of lining free.  When liner is glued in basket glue extending edges of lining over top edges of basket, trimming lining even with outer edges of basket.
Glue or hinge lid to basket, gluing on thread braces from lid to basket.  Make a loop of tan thread and glue extended over lid’s front edge.  Tie a double knot of the same thread, cut knot free and glue to front edge of basket in line with loop on lid to act as a faux fastener.
To enhance the vintage look, silk and/or lace loops and bows & tiny seed beads and fine fringe may adorn the basket.

For basket stand cut four pieces of 3/32” dowel, 1 ¼” long.  Wrap each leg, from top to bottom with knit-cro-sheen thread.  For cross pieces cut eight, ½” lengths of 1/16” dowel.  For uprights cut four pieces of 1/16” dowel 3/8´long.  For curved side pieces cut four pieces of 1/16” diam. plastic coated wire.  Wrap all of these pieces with knit-cro-sheen thread, holding with glue.
Assemble base as shown, with glue.  Paint base & antique base as for basket.  Glue work basket on top of base. 
Fill basket with sewing supplies as desired.

 Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and Paste to computer
Set to print at exact/actual size or 5.25"W x 2.53"H
Don't forget to peek in tomorrow....


Well I couldn’t help it, the kids are coming over this weekend and I wanted to get my scrapbook albums caught up for them to see….they are turning out so nice.  I will clean up the mess as soon as I am done….promise!  Oh geez, I just ate another piece of candy.

FLOOR LAMP (non working)

This lamp is made up from bits and pieces, use what I did or substitute similar pieces from your supplies.  Looking at the diagram you see that the base is a ¾” H x ¾” W checker pawn.  A hole was drilled in the top of this piece to accommodate a 3/32” diam. bamboo skewer (a dowel may be used but bamboo is much stronger).  Punch a 1/16” round hole in a piece of matboard.  Center a ¼” round paper punch over the 1/16” hole and punch out the round.  Use a needle file to open up the hole enough to take the skewer.  The punched round should sit about 2-7/8” up from the top of the pawn.  Next comes a 3/8” section of brass tubing (JAR/JAF Jewelry Findings ) with a center large enough to take the skewer. A 3/16” grommet scrap booking supply) sits on top of the tubing followed by a 3/8” long x ¼” W (at its center) wooden bead with its center reamed out to fit the skewer.  This bead is painted a pearlized white to simulate a light bulb.  The skewer is cut off 3/8” above the “bulb”.  Inserted on top of the skewer is a brass spoke (JAR/JAF) with the spokes trimmed and bent to take the lamp shade used.  On the very top is a finial that could be a bit cut from a Tiny Turnings or a bead.  All non-brass parts except the bead bulb were painted with brass colored Rub ‘n Buff.

The lamp shade is a restaurant cream container covered with lace trim.  Empty and wash the cream container.  Cut out the bottom indented circle using small curved scissors, this end will be the top of the shade.  Trim the other end off so the shade is 15/16” high.  Cut the edges off lacy seam binding and use this trim to wrap up and over the whole shade, slightly over lapping as you go around to make up for the curve.  Hold with tiny dabs of glue as needed.  The shade sits on top of the brass top of the lamp.

WICKER PET BED (sized for a small dog or a cat)

You will need:  matt board + straight pins + J&P Coats Knit-Cro-Sheen cotton thread in ecru + tacky-type craft glue + acrylic craft paint in off white or raw sienna (depending on what color you want your bed) and a brown gel stain + needle tool + scrap of lightweight cardboard + cotton + scrap of fabric for bed’s pillow

 Cut a bed bottom from matt board and transfer markings to it.  Use a needle tool or something similar to poke holes thru matboard as marked.
      Use three strands of thread to braid enough length to fit around the outside edge of bottom piece. Saturate braid with glue to prevent fraying when cut.  Glue the braid to the outside of the bottom edge, starting and stopping at center back and melding the two ends.

Insert straight pins into the poked holes so that their ends are flush with the bottom piece.  Braid enough thread to go around underside of bottom piece to cover pin heads; glue in place, starting and stopping at center back.  Let glue set.

Glue the end of a length of thread on inside of bottom piece, just to the left of center front pin.  Weave in and out of pins a full 5 times around.  On the 6th time around eliminate 12-3 pins and turn on the 4th, reversing directions and turning on the 4th pin on the other side. Continue in this manner, eliminating a pin and reversing directions until you come to the marked back corners.  Cut off excess thread and glue end to inside.  Tap a little glue on top of the pins where it touches the pins.  When dry snip off excess pins.  CAUTION: Pins tend to fly so where safety glasses.  You can also hold the bed over a paper bag while snipping or put a piece of tape on top of the pins prior to snipping.

Braid enough thread to go around top of bed.  Saturate with glue and glue over the top of weaving ,hiding pin tips.

Paint whole bed with two coats of a “natural” basket color.  When dry antique with brown water-based gel stain, wiping off the stain until you are pleased with the color. 
Cut a piece of lightweight cardboard to size slightly smaller than the inside of the bed.  Pad the top of the cardboard with cotton and cover with appropriate fabric, turning raw edges to back.  Place in bottom of bed

Click on pattern to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.03"W x 2.24"H

Print cover on matt presentation paper.  Print pages on bright white paper.  Cut out. Note: pages may be cut in one long strip or separated in pages. 
For front and back covers, Fold in half and glue, wrong sides together.  Note: You may choose to cut out the photo opening and glue a photo into it from the back, if so do this before gluing the front together. 

If you have left the pages in on long piece, fold accordion style.  Place the pages between the front and back covers with the left sides flush with each other.  Hold the album secure with a smooth mouthed clip.  Poke a needle size hole thru the album using the printed dots as a placement guide. Hint: Fine point lancets used for diabetes blood testing are a great tool for this and similar jobs. 

Thread a needle with buttonhole thread in color of choice.  Insert the needle and thread down one poked hole from the front and then up the other from the back.  Knot thread and tie a bow if desired.  Tie an overhand knot in each thread end at the length you want these trailing ends to be.  Cut off thread a smidge beyond the knots and fray out the ends for a tassel-like look.
Add appropriate photos and embellishments.  This project makes a fun personalized gift.  And you or your club could host a scrapbooking party, exchanging photos and embellishments. 

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.96"W x 3.04"H
Print onto bright white paper

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 10.14"W x 1.35"H
Print onto matte presentation paper
Add scissors, glue, rulers, & cut-outs and/or photos around the albums.  Fill a trimmed plastic jelly container with squares of colored paper and cut-outs.

Be sure and check back to see what our "hostess" gets into next...personally the room is starting to feel more and more like home to me,

A Creative Mind
Day 4:

“I mean, what good are books on bookshelves…I like things I treasure to surround me.  I want to touch them, peruse them; I need to turn their pages for inspiration & confirmation…sitting closed on a shelf they are mute.  That’s my story and I am sticking to it.”

Print book covers on semi-gloss photo paper.  Cut out, score and fold.  You can choose to either fill the books with faux pages cut from rectangles of foamcore board, book board or matboard or you can cut the pages from table spines (or make your own by stacking sheets of paper together to thickness desired and then coating edges with glue stick to hold the stack together.  When the glue has set cut page rectangles using the glued edge as the spine.  Glue pages into book. 
Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and Paste to Computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.11"W x 3.51"H
Print onto semi gloss photo paper


You will need 1/16” thick book board or sheet wood and 2 Tiny Turnings # TTN1000 (do a web search, TT’s are available from many sources).  From the book board or wood cut a top and a shelf 2 ½” x 1 ¾”.  Round off the corners and sand smooth.  Cut four divider legs and four legs from Tiny Turning as shown. 
Paint all pieces desired color (a vintage green used here) and buff to a sheen. For a shabby chic look some paint may be sanded back to the base material if desired.
Glue four legs to the underside of what will be the shelf and four dividers to the underside what will be the table top. The legs and dividers will be set in 1/16” from each rounded corner.
Note:  You will notice that each section of the tiny turning is separated by a “peg”.  These pegs may be left intact when you cut the legs and dividers free and inserted into holes made in the top and shelf pieces.  This will give more stability depending on the usage of the table.



The base of this lamp is a tiny resin cottage * that I cut free from a bigger piece.  A hole was drilled into the top of the roof large enough to take a round toothpick with the point cut off.  Not counting the part of the toothpick that is in the roof, the toothpick extends up ½ “.  The top of the toothpick is sharpened to a point so it will fit into an oval white glass bead (the light bulb) about 3/8” long.  A second 3/8” section of toothpick with an end sharpened is inserted into the other end of the bead.  The other end of this section of the toothpick has a 1/8” wide strip of cardstock wrapped around it.  The entire toothpick sections are painted with brass colored Rub ‘n Buff.  Of course if you are planning on wiring your lamp you will want to use brass tubing  for the pipe in place of a toothpick.
Click on pattern image to enlarge.  Copy & Paste to Computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.55"W x 3.40"H
The shade is cut from parchment-like scrapbook paper.  Roll the shade with a round pencil on a soft surface following the shape causing it to curl up.  The sides are glued overlapped. You may choose to trim the top and bottom edges with thread.  A trimmed and shaped brass spoke was used as described for the floor lamp and glued into the top of the lampshade.


What?  It is almost the end of the week and no miniatures???  What is our crafter waiting for, maybe for us look the other way?  We shall see.......


What is going on here???  What happened to cleanliness is next to godliness and all?
“My house is very clean, just, well a bit untidy. And you know, you just can’t take the minis out of a miniaturist….life is short so I choose to live mine as I want.
As Picasso said, Every act of creation is first of all an act of destruction’ ” 


Cut the tray (A) from 1/16” thick wood or matboard.  Round off the edges and corners.  Paint or stain as desired.

Cut four legs (B’s) per pattern from 3/32’ square stripwood.  Round off all ends.  Cut round toothpicks or similar size dowel (bamboo id possible, for its strength) for the (C’s) stretchers.  If you wish to peg your stretchers for strength add the extra length otherwise cut to fit between legs.  Paint or stain these pieces to match tray.  Glue the stretchers between a set of legs following pattern.  Drill holes thru all legs as shown.  Insert a peg or piece of wire thru holes to join legs, the single legs to the outside of the joined legs.  Glue top ends of leg assembly to underside of tray, placed as shown on pattern.

Place a miniature house on the tray.

Click on pattern to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 5.42"W x 3.15"H

Print file box onto semi-gloss photo paper or matte presentation paper.  Cut out and score on fold lines. Glue together on tabs. 

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.95"W x 2.59"H
Set at best settings & print onto semi-gloss photo paper

Print file folders on manila colored paper so that both sides will be the correct color.  Cut out, score, fold and fill as desired.  Add to file box and scatter a few here and there.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.95"W x 2.91"W
Print on to matte presentation paper or manila folder paper
Cut out printies and assemble box, tabs to inside.  Display shut or open with bits of wood or what have you showing.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print a actual/exact size or 3.24"W x 1.34"H
Print at best settings on matte presentation paper
Make color copies of paint bottle printies on bright white paper & cut out. To make the bottles use a 1/16” dowel or bamboo skewer as the base, do not cut it to size yet.  Starting even with the bottom of the dowel, wrap a cutout around the dowel twice so that the label is in the front;  use glue stick to hold.  For lid area, cut of dowel/skewer 1/16” above the label.  Paint the 1/16” area white, black, or gold.  Bottles may be finished in a semi-gloss that is compatible with your printer ink.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.87"W x 2.15"H
Print at best settings on bright white paper

We all know this can't go on forever, we can hear "our mothers's whispering in our ears" .  So we shall see what tomorrow brings, whatever I am sure it will not be as fun as this creative chaos,

Joann (who can also hear her mother tsk-tsking)


Alas, there comes a time in every woman’s life “when a gal’s gotta do what a gal’s gotta do”….even if she doesn’t want to.  Time to pay the piper and clean up the “mess” that was oh, so fun to create.


STORAGE BOXES: Just as for the scrapbook storage, these are simply restaurant plastic jelly containers trimmed a bit.  As seen, one is filled with extra books and magazines and the other with cleaning supplies. 

SCRUB BRUSH: For the block, cut 5/8” to 7/8” lengths of 3/16” to ¼” x 1/16” stripwood.  Sand smooth and slightly round off top edges.  Leave natural or slightly weather it as desired for a used-look.  Using the coarser side of a strip of Velcro, cut a piece to fit the block and glue in place to the underside. 

CLEANING PRODUCT CANS:  Cut lengths of 3/16” round dowel to fit the length of printie used.  Glue the printie around the dowel, with seam at center back & cutting off excess paper.  Use a 3/16 paper punch to punch a round out of the yellow square on the printie; glue to top of “can”.  Cut out small strip and glue around stop section of can to simulate the lid, with seam at center back.  Lid section or whole can be finished with a semi-gloss compatible with your computer ink.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.54"W x 1.93"H
Print onto bright white paper at best settings

CLEANING PRODUCT BOTTLE: Cut a ½” section from an amber colored Lite-Brite peg starting from the fatter, rounded end.  Rounded end will be the top of the bottle.  Cut out green label printie and glue around center of peg, seam at center back.  Glue a yellow seed bead to center top and fill the hole with yellow acrylic paint.  Coat bead/lid with cleat nail enamel. 


PAPER TOWELS:  From a full sized paper towel sheet cut a 1” wide strip.  With the wrong side of the paper towel (this side will usually will have a finer pattern)  facing out roll the strip around a round toothpick until you have a paper towel roll with an approx. ½” diam.  Hold with a bit of glue.  Gently pull the toothpick out of the center.


Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.61"W x 3.76"H
Print onto matte presentation paper/card-stock
You will need:  cardstock (index card or presentation paper, etc.) + round toothpick + Tacky craft glue + acrylic craft paint
-Print pattern sheet onto presentation paper/cardstock
-Cut the 1/32” wide strips into 12 pieces that match the lengths of the 12 vertical lines on the dust pan bottom pattern piece.  Glue the strips over the texture lines on the dust pan bottom.
-Lay the side piece on a scrap of Styrofoam and using a needle or needle tool punch a hole in the bottom center where indicated.  Use the pointed end of a round toothpick to enlarge the hole.
-Glue face of side piece to outside edge of bottom piece, matching centers.  Trim off any excess of the side piece hanging over the front edge of the bottom piece.
-For handle cut a length of toothpick ½” long starting from one pointed end.  Sand the point flat on one side.  Insert and glue the pointed end of the handle thru back of hole in side piece to top of dust pan bottom piece with flattened portion of toothpick resting on the bottom piece.  3/16” of handle should be inside pan and 5/16” extending out the back of side piece.
-The cover piece is optional.  To add it glue it onto the top of the side piece with back edges even.
-The completed dust pan may be painted any color with black, white, sage green, royal blue being the most popular colors. Designs, hand painted or stencils may be added to cover if desired.  Gloss the finished dust pan with an acrylic gloss finish or clear nail enamel. A hole may be drilled thru the handle for hanging if needed.

I had plans to create a vacuum cleaner and then I spotted this darling one on  It  really does the job for this project…and the price was right. 

For the handle use a round toothpick with a decorative turned end (usually found at party and kitchen shops).  Cut it to 1” length from turned end.  Finish handle as desired with paint or stain & gloss. 

Measure and mark a line 3/16” up from unturned end of handle. Using small fluffy feathers, cut as necessary to ¾” to 1” long and  glue the tip ends around the marked 3/16” section to desired fullness.  Let glue set.  NOTE:  Make sure your feather are treated…most purchased at craft stores are but if you are using others treat them yourself by freezing and thawing three times in a row.  Otherwise you may wake up to find your feather duster “bald”.  

With fingertips, wipe glue onto a length of buttonhole thread and wrap it around the feathers where they are attached to the handle.

Print the apron and pocket design onto a quality printer fabric (EQ (Electric Quilt) Printables Premium Cotton Lawn Inkjet Fabric Sheets used here:

Cut out apron & pocket pattern adding a 3/32” hem allowance on all sides of both pieces and marking pocket placement on apron. Turn back apron & pocket hems with glue, clipping corners & curves as needed for a neat finish.   Put a thin layer of glue on outside of hems on pocket and glue onto apron as marked.  When glue has set you may choose to use a stylus to make faux stitching lines on all hems and down center of pocket.  

Using 1/8” wide ribbon or cording in color of choice to cut neck and waist ties to lengths desired; glue ends to back side of apron. 

You may also choose to use the apron & pocket printies as patterns to cut the pieces from appropriate fabric.  To use the designs make the printies into appliques by coating with several layers of Mod Podge, drying well between each coat.  Cut out and glue to apron.  

To "pose" the apron glue aluminum foil (dull side to fabric) to the back of the apron.  When the glue has set you will be able to mold it as desired.

Click on image to enlarge.  Copy and paste to computer.
Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.44"W x 3.94"H
Print onto quality printer fabric following manufacturer's directions.

Sorry, but I couldn't resist those pictures
BTW, the delay in getting the last section of this project up was caused by me realizing that I needed to clean up my “mess” in real life…and yes, it was fun creating it but took much longer to tidy-up than the miniature version….sigh.  Many times I have thought how nice it would be to have someone clean up for me after a project, but could you imagine trying to explain to someone, especially a non-miniaturist, what-was-what when even the tiniest scrap of something is not to be tossed.  And just because a container of whatever is “resting” on top of my trashcan  does not mean it is to be trashed…tried to “explain” that to my husband once after a careers worth of silk ribbon disappeared.

I hope you had fun with this project as I think most of us can relate to the subject in one way or another. 

The weather here has finally decided it is time for Spring to arrive and I am busy “in the garden”, so find your garden gloves & hat and be prepared to join me in my next Progressive Project: 

"The Potting Bench"….coming soon,