Top o' the Mornin' Part 2

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COBBLER’S WORK TABLE

   1.  Cut all pieces A-J from acid-free matboard.  Cut piece K from thin cardstock.

     2.  Glue back edge of bottom B to face of back A, bottom edges flush.

     3.  Glue right hand door sides C&D to the AB assembly, placed as shown in diagram.

     4.  Glue left hand door front and backs E&F to the AB assembly, placed as shown. 

          Note that these two pieces are set back 1/16” from front edge the bottom.

     5.  Check to see if the door piece G fits exactly between your D&C pieces and if necessary  make adjustments.  Use a craft knife to score in the drawer divider lines.  This piece may be left as is for a complete faux front or you may choose to cut one of the drawers free as seen.  If you choose not to have an open drawer, after scoring in the divider lines, glue G between D&C and to bottom, front edges flush.  If you choose to have an open drawer, cut the middle drawer free and set aside.  Glue the top and bottom drawer/divider sections in place between D& C, front edges flush, the bottom drawer glued to bottom B and the top drawer flush with the top of D&C.  For the open drawer use cardstock to create a simple box that is slightly smaller all around than the drawer front and depth of C/D opening.  Set aside.

6.  Glue door side H , to fronts of E&F and to bottom, all edges flush.

7.  Glue top piece I evenly to top edges of C/D/E/F/G/H and to face of back A.  This will leave a 1/8” ledge along the back.

Copy & paste to your computer.  Set printer to print at actual/exact size or to print at 

8.26"w x 6.67"h

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8.  Glue side ledges J to top and back pieces, all edges flush.

9.  Cut a door face K from thin cardstock.  Glue it evenly over the face of faux door E.  Use a medium ball stylus to “draw” over the cut edges of the faux door front to soften them.

10.  Sand all edges soft with fine sandpaper.

11.  Using a 1/8” round paper punch, punch out 5 rounds from matboard.  Glue these door knobs to the door and drawers, placed as shown.

12.  After all glue is thoroughly set paint the whole piece, including the drawer if you have cut it out, with one or two coats of raw sienna acrylic paint.  Let paint dry thoroughly, not just dry to the touch…this is very important…if you are impatient; use a heat gun to speed up the drying.   Make an antiquing mixture of half and half Delta’s Gel Stain Medium & Burnt Umber Acrylic Paint.  Apply the mixture with a brush and let set for a minute or two; gently rub & blot off the still damp mixture with a soft cloth to achieve a very old and used wood look.  More age can be added by stippling on the antiquing mixture with a tiny segment of a sea sponge.  When everything is completely dry, buff to a sheen with a clean, soft cloth.

13.  Insert faux drawer with a bit of glue, letting it extend out as much as desired.

14.   Note:  If you are so inclined you could make the side door functioning too, adding shelves to hold supplies.

WORK TABLE TOP ACCESSORIES

      The three bowls are acorn tops, sanded to lay flat and lightly glazed.

      One holds tiny brass escutcheon pins (ask at your miniature hardware supplier), another holds shoe buckles cut from gold paper lace doilies (see sample...look to party supply stores) (the contents of both these two bowls are held in place with a couple of drops of clear nail enamel dribbled over them), and spools of thread are in the one on the left hand corner (Tiny Turnings #2000…these are large and small segments that resemble wooden spools.  Wrap sewing thread around them and hold with a bit of glue; slice each spool free, arrange a few in a bowl and scatter the others about).

      The three glass bottles are from 7 Gypsies http://www.sevengypsies.com/  and are filled with tiny no-hole beads.

      The candlestick is a metal miniature http://metalminis.com painted to resemble turned wood.  The candle is carved out from a yellow birthday candle.

      I will talk about the awl with the other tools in another segment.

      The diy for the metal shoe-form will be will be included with the shoe instructions. 

      Rolls of “leather” are made by cutting strips of scrapbook paper in desired color and then crumpling and rolling them  up until you can see the edges separating. Put on the separation for two thinner pieces, one side will be smooth (leather) and the other textured (suede).  Leave as is or paint the smooth side with a coat of clear nail enamel for a slight sheen…as seen one of the greens was painted to match the shoe on the table top.  Form into rolls and hold with thread or wire.  Leather scraps may be added to table top.
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COBBLER’S BENCH

     Cut all pieces but legs from 1/16” matboard, tracing top curve patterns on top piece (A).

     Cut ¼” strips & cut these to size as shown for back, sides, partition, and dividers (B ,C’s, D, E, & F’s, gluing their 1/16” edges to face of top piece.     

     Cut leg supports G & H and glue to bottom of bench, marking leg positions.  With a pin vise drill a small hole in the center of the marked leg positions. 
      From 1/8” sq. stripwood cut four legs 7/8” long.  Whittle one end, approx.. ½ of the way up to taper the leg…this to be done in a rather primitive manner.  On the other end of the leg insert the point of a straight pin about a 1/8 of an inch and then nip it off so that 1/16” of the pin extends out.  With glue insert the pin head into your drilled holes until legs are snug against the supports. When all glues have set paint and antique as was done for the Cobbler’s Work Table.

      Using a ¾” round paper punch cut a round of either very thin leather or faux leather and glue to top of bench as shown for a seat.  You can age the leather if desired.  Faux tack heads may be indented around the seat with a small round stylus.

Click on pattern and copy and paste to your computer.

Set printer to print at actual/exact size or set to print at 

4.81"w x 5.21"h

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    BENCH ACCESSORIES

      On the seat are a hammer and a curved knife.  In the large partition is a pot of glue (a small acorn painted black with a black seed bead glued opposite each other on the outside of the top of the pot.  A piece of fine black wire was shaped into a half circle large enough to span the pot and the ends were glued into the holes in the seed beads), two different colors of rolled pieces of faux leather, and a jar of black shoe stain (a wooden mason jar, craft store purchase, cut in half and painted black with a brass lid).  The small partitions hold spools of thread and tiny brads, and a knife.

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HANGING SHELF

From 1/16” thick  matboard or wood cut a top piece and a back piece 3 ¼” x ¾”.  From 13/16” colonial molding (Lowes) or similar molding (check your miniature supplier) cut two slices 3/16” thick for shelf supports.

      Glue the top piece to the back piece, back edges flush.  Glue the supports to the underside of the tip pieces and face of the back piece, set in ¼” from the edges.

      Cut 3/8” lengths from the turned end of turned toothpicks for pegs (or something similar).  Drill three holes in back piece of shelf, ¼” up from the bottom edge of a size to take the pegs.  The first will be centered side to side and the others spaced as desired.  Note: you can choose to make the pegs longer or shorter and spaced as desired, adding more if needed, all depending on what you choose to hang from them.  Glue the pegs into the drilled holes. When all glue is set paint and antique as was done for other furnishings.

      It is likely that your structure’s wall not be even but the shelf will touch it in at least two places so it is hang-able.  Use Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky glue and brace the shelf from the bottom until the glue has set….this glue is strong and grips very fast.

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      Now you have the furnishings for your wee cobbler's shoppe.  Next will come  Part 3 with all else you see.  If you are trying this project in part or whole let me know how it is going for you...  See you in a bit...  


       Joann


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